About This BlogDenali National Park's mountaineering blog contains periodic feature stories on life in the Alaska Range, as well as almost-daily Field Reports containing mountain statistics for Denali and Foraker, weather observations, and route conditions on Denali and other climbing areas of the Alaska Range. Field Report, July 9, 2024
July 09, 2024
The 2024 season is a wrap! Coinciding with the 60th Anniversary of the first African American ascent of Denali. Field Report, July 5, 2024
July 05, 2024
It ain't over until it's over. As three teams wait for flight out of Basecamp, the 2024 Denali season nears its end. Field Report, July 1, 2024
July 01, 2024
Final days of the Denali climbing season, and final days of the University of Tasmania climber and backcountry user survey Field Report, June 14, 2024
June 14, 2024
Final NPS patrol of the season heads up; two sick climbers come down Field Report, June 11, 2024
June 11, 2024
Warmer temps on the lower glacier, even quieter days in the medical tent Field Report, May 21, 2024
May 21, 2024
Updated conditions report for the middle mountain; link to news about a fatal fall on the Denali Pass traverse Field Report, May 14, 2024
May 14, 2024
Upper mountain conditions reports, plus info on a wilderness study being conducted in the Alaska Range this season Field Report, April 27, 2024
April 27, 2024
Welcome to the 2024 Field Reports! This edition is quick and dirty -- with more substance to come in the weeks ahead. Field Report, June 30, 2023
June 30, 2023
Climbers hoping to take advantage of a long-awaited break in the weather Field Report, June 28, 2023
June 28, 2023
Another week of relative quiet on Denali. Summit rate dips to 30%. Field Report, June 6, 2023
June 06, 2023
Over the half-way point now, challenging weather conditions persist Field Report, May 31, 2023
May 31, 2023
Climber medivaced this morning with HACE/HAPE; plus a quick patrol report from the Ruth Gorge Field Report, May 29, 2023
May 29, 2023
Upper mountain getting top heavy with 100 climbers at High Camp. Field Report, May 24, 2023
May 24, 2023
Lively week, plus weather station equipment back up at 7K and 14K Field Report, May 17, 2023
May 17, 2023
Climbers on the lower mountain emerge from a multi-day wind and snowstorm, while the upper mountain remains breezy. Field Report, May 9, 2023
May 09, 2023
Search continues for two missing climbers on the Moose's Tooth Field Report, April 24, 2023
April 24, 2023
The 2023 Denali mountaineering season is well underway. Lots of happy route reports from around the Range. Climbing the Muldrow Post-2021 Surge
December 07, 2022
A visit to the Muldrow Glacier in August 2022 give an idea of how the route is looking these days Field Report, June 14, 2022
June 14, 2022
Summit percentage tops 70% amidst multiple weekend rescue efforts Field Report, June 10, 2022
June 10, 2022
Another patrol trade-out, an evac, and a summit percentage that continues to climb Field Report, June 6, 2022
June 06, 2022
Summit percentage up to 66% as prolonged high pressure system lingers Field Report, June 1, 2022
June 01, 2022
Summit percentage soars to over 60%. Also, meet Mr. Fixit...Nate Smith! Field Report, Friday, May 27, 2022
May 27, 2022
Pretty quiet couple days, other than a False InReach activation Field Report, May 20, 2022
May 20, 2022
Updated conditions report; plus meet DRV president Steve Mock Field Report, May 18, 2022
May 18, 2022
Body recovered from upper mountain. Fatal crevasse fall on the Kahiltna Glacier. Field Report, May 9, 2022
May 09, 2022
Next NPS team on deck is the first all-women Upper Mountain patrol Field Report, May 7, 2022
May 07, 2022
With great sadness, we report a climbing fatality on Denali this week Field Report, May 4, 2022
May 04, 2022
Reports from the Ruth Gorge, West Ridge of Hunter, and Ham and Eggs Field Report, May 2, 2022
May 02, 2022
So it begins -- Lisa begins her 23rd season at Basecamp. First NPS patrol is in. 20 Years and Counting of Clean Mountain Cans on Denali
April 21, 2022
Spear-headed by mountaineering ranger Roger Robinson and made possible by a conservation grant from the American Alpine Club, the first 50 CMCs were tested on the mountain by expeditions on a voluntary basis in 2001. Field Report, July 4 - 10, 2021
July 10, 2021
Final few days on Denali; meanwhile, some rangers shift to some interesting post-season project work. Frappuchino and Altitude - A Case Study
July 06, 2021
A fond farewell to friend and fellow ranger Dave Weber Field Report, June 27 to July 3, 2021
July 03, 2021
Lower glacier holding its own thanks to some chillier nights and a little new snow. So, exactly what is it you do on a 7K patrol?
June 22, 2021
A day in the life of an NPS basecamp patrol Field Report, May 9 - 15, 2021
May 16, 2021
Field reports moving to weekly updates. First Denali summits of the year called in. Lower glacier conditions reports. Fatal serac fall in the Ruth. Field Report, May 3, 2021
May 03, 2021
First NPS West Buttress patrol of the season flies onto the mountain, while on the East Buttress, a climber is evacuated with HAPE Twas the Night Before Climbing Season
April 30, 2021
Patience. Flexibility. Tolerance for Adversity. (Plus some signs of spring!) 50th Anniversary of the First All-Female Denali Expedition
July 13, 2020
Denali celebrates the 50th Anniversary of the First All-Female Denali Expedition in 2020 The First SAR of the Season
May 15, 2020
When I was hired as a Denali Mountaineering Ranger last fall, this season is not exactly what I was expecting. As far as I can tell, this is a pretty commonly held sentiment across the entire United States and world. Spring of 2020: not exactly what we were expecting. COVID-19 and the Best Denali Training Plan
May 04, 2020
For those of you who have not experienced Alaskan hunkering, finding ways to keep the stoke alive and well through this COVID experience will serve you well when you get to fly in to Kahiltna Base Camp in the future. My First Mission
April 17, 2020
Little did she realize as she excitedly headed into her first Denali mountaineering season, Ranger Michelle Dalpes' first -- and possibly only -- rigging 'patient' of the 2020 season would be a giant rubber marine buoy. Kichatna to Chelatna and Beyond!
July 22, 2019
A (not so) instant classic of a trip on the south side of the Alaska Range Field Report, July 15, 2019
July 15, 2019
No climbers left on Denali...season finishes up with a 65% summit rate. Field Report, July 9, 2019
July 09, 2019
All NPS patrols are now off the mountain...perhaps with the remaining 67 climbers ready to fly out today?! Field Report, July 5, 2019
July 05, 2019
A patient was flown from 14K today; patrol busy breaking down 14K Field Report, June 20, 2019
June 20, 2019
Helicopter pilot Andy staying fairly busy yesterday and today Field Report, June 18
June 18, 2019
Much patrol movement over the weekend. Lower glacier still in great travel condition. Field Report, June 14, 2019
June 14, 2019
First summits of the year for Mount Foraker; Denali's summit percentage continues to rise during ridiculous stretch of clear, calm weather Field Report, June 11, 2019
June 11, 2019
"This is my favorite kind of low pressure, the kind that feels like high pressure." Field Report, June 10, 2019
June 10, 2019
Lower glacier still in fantastic travel condition. Big patrol swap-out yesterday. Also, WARNING: ugly frostbite photo. Field Report, June 6, 2019
June 06, 2019
Electrical storms moved over the upper mountain yesterday, hindering many summit plans A Volunteer's Perspective
June 04, 2019
"I’m so thankful there are still mountains that put us in our place, keep our realities in check..." Field Report, June 3, 2019
June 03, 2019
The summit percentage jumped from 23% to 46% yesterday, as over 140 climbers flew out of basecamp. Most of them happy! Field Report, May 24, 2019
May 24, 2019
475 climbers on mountain as of today...getting lively around here. Field Report, May 21, 2019
May 21, 2019
Two young brothers from Nome, Alaska are the first to stand on the summit of Denali this season! Field Report, May 20, 2019
May 20, 2019
Currently no teams are camped above 14K, although news from the hill the first summits of the season were recorded yesterday. Field Report, May 17, 2019
May 17, 2019
Clear, calm skies on Friday morning allowed for long awaited sling-load operations. Fixed lines (both up and down) should be in good form now. Field Report, May 16, 2019
May 16, 2019
Rapidly getting busier on Denali. The 14K patrol is working on fixed lines today, still awaiting more gear loads from BC. Upper mountain NPS patrol #3 flew in yesterday. Mount Russell Patrol Report - Part Two
May 15, 2019
Play-by-play of a recent attempt of Mount Russell Field Report, May 14, 2019
May 14, 2019
Includes news release from recent Windy Corner short-haul rescue Field Report, May 9, 2019
May 09, 2019
Snow falling, wind blowing. But today a quick break in the weather allowed one NPS patrol to fly into basecamp, and another NPS patrol to fly out of the Ruth Gorge. Winter Weather Data
May 06, 2019
A graphic snapshot of last summer's weather on the Kahiltna, as well as an early overview of winter 2018/19 data. Mount Russell Patrol Report - Part 1
May 03, 2019
The first of a two-part patrol report, this post discusses the background and history of climbing on Mount Russell. Field Report, May 2, 2019
May 02, 2019
Basecamp climbing update; first NPS patrol of the season is on its way up New Weather Stations on the Kahiltna Glacier
April 22, 2019
Last climbing season, NPS staff and collaborators installed three new weather stations on Denali’s Kahiltna Glacier. The stations are meant to be permanent, and two are broadcasting hourly data that are available online to the public. Pika Glacier Avalanche Training
April 16, 2019
NPS rangers head into the Pika Glacier for pre-season avalanche training, but come away with much more Training, training, and then some more training
April 10, 2019
Climbing season -- as well as ranger training season - is well underway in Denali National Park. Women on Top of the World
July 26, 2018
It was a great year for women on Denali with many more to come. Pika Glacier Climbing and Traversing
July 11, 2018
A brief account of climbing rangers Jake Beren and Frank Preston climbing on Pika Glacier and traversing the range back to Talkeetna. Field Report, July 4, 2018
July 04, 2018
Only a handful of guided teams left on Denali, all up high. The lower mountain is a (wet and mushy) ghost town. Field Report, June 22, 2018
June 23, 2018
Apologies for the lapse in Field Reports...we're back in action. Speaking of back in action, climbers are starting to move again after a prolonged snowstorm A Recipe for Pea Soup
June 20, 2018
Using technology to stay safe in the Alaska Range (or elsewhere!) Field Report, June 8, 2018
June 08, 2018
Summit rate closing in on 50%; also, a frightening case of CO poisoning at 14K Field Report, June 4, 2018
June 04, 2018
Climbers transitioning to night schedules; also info on helo rescue of an ataxic climber at Zebra Rocks Field Report, June 1, 2018
June 01, 2018
Summit percentage starting to rise after a streak of clear, calm days on top Field Report, May 25, 2018
May 25, 2018
Finally, a small wave of summitters checking back today, reporting stellar conditions on Denali. Field Report, May 23, 2018
May 23, 2018
The pickets on the traverse to Denali Pass reported in good shape, and the fixed lines are now ice-free. Multiple teams at, or moving to, high camp today. Field Report, May 18, 2018
May 18, 2018
Patrol #2 makes it to 14 camp, still reports firm, windswept sastrugi from 11K and up. Field Report, May 16, 2018
May 16, 2018
Several feet of new snow at lower elevations over the past several days; plus a new Talkeetna Ranger Station first! Staff feeling particularly spicy today. Field Report, May 10, 2018
May 10, 2018
The brief reprieve is over, snow is falling again. New route reports from Moose's Tooth and Mount Hunter. Field Report, May 8, 2018
May 08, 2018
Climbers, rangers, and basecamp managers are all enjoying a couple day reprieve from snow and wind. Beyond the West Buttress: The Route Less Travelled
May 07, 2018
Finding those wildest of places is entirely up to you. Field Report, May 4, 2018
May 04, 2018
Digging out basecamp, plus route reports for Huntington, Peak 11,300, Ham & Eggs, Mini Moonflower Field Report, May 3, 2018
May 03, 2018
Meaty report: Includes recent snowfall totals, current avalanche hazard, first patrol of the season, and second rescue. Chinook Season in the Alaska Range
April 30, 2018
Soldiers from U.S. Army Alaska's 1st Battalion, 52nd Aviation Regiment help NPS Rangers transport camp supplies to the Kahiltna Glacier on April 22, 2018 Alaska Range Conditions Update, April 26, 2018
April 27, 2018
A local pilot shares observations from the Range Spring Training: When LAST comes first
April 16, 2018
Denali mountaineering rangers train extensively in search and rescue skills every year in the hopes that they do not have to use them. Sundog Spectacular
July 17, 2017
Even better than 4th of July fireworks, an NPS patrol enjoyed an otherworldy sky show on July 5th. Update for July 12 2017
July 12, 2017
One team left enjoying the solitude and beauty of North America's highest peak Field Report, June 29, 2017
June 29, 2017
Numbers continue to dwindle; Basecamp operations getting packed up for the season. Field Report, June 27, 2017
June 27, 2017
Summit rate has inched up a bit after some near-perfect summit days Field Report, June 15, 2017
June 15, 2017
Continued cold temperatures make for good early morning glacier travel Follow-up on Monday's Rescues
June 09, 2017
Follow up, including thank-yous to all VIPs, guides, and climbers who assisted Field Report, June 9, 2017
June 09, 2017
DOWN LOW: Waist deep post-holing in slush; UP HIGH: sustained 50 mph winds Field Report, June 6, 2017
June 06, 2017
Mountain operations returning to normal after a long, hectic day yesterday Two Climbers Rescued from the Kahiltna Glacier
June 05, 2017
Denali National Park and Preserve rangers responded to two concurrent mountaineering incidents starting in the early morning hours of Monday, June 5 A Progress Report on the Birthday Pack-Out Initiative
June 02, 2017
An admittedly unorthodox way to celebrate your birthday Field Report, May 30, 2017
May 30, 2017
Rangers get a helping hand on several rescues over the long weekend Field Report, May 15, 2017
May 15, 2017
Fixed lines all good to go; beware a sneaky crevasse just downglacier from Basecamp Field Report, May 5, 2017
May 05, 2017
Camp gear gets sling-loaded to 14K today; Talkeetna staff unwinds after 300+ children descend on the ranger station yesterday. Kahiltna Patrol Report
May 01, 2017
Kahiltna Glacier patrol report and photos, including Annie's Ridge, Radio Tower Field Report: April 27, 2017
April 27, 2017
Its still the calm before the storm in terms of numbers on Denali, though the number of climbers in the glaciated backcountry continues to pick up. Field Report, April 24, 2017
April 24, 2017
More route condition reports for Ruth peaks; first Pack-Out of the season Field Report, April 20, 2017
April 20, 2017
Activity stats and snow conditions for Denali and peaks in the Ruth 2017 Season Opener
April 20, 2017
Intro to the 2017 mountaineering rangers and support staff; Info on the 2017 Birthday Pack-Out Initiative Field Report, July 15
July 15, 2016
A small handful of climbers still enjoying the solitude of late season on Denali Field Report, July 11
July 11, 2016
The last NPS patrol is now off the mountain, with Chinooks coming in the next day or two to extract camp gear Pika Patrol Report
June 28, 2016
Pika conditions report, plus basics on the Pika-Wildhorse-Tokositna overland traverse to Talkeetna. Field Report, June 27
June 27, 2016
Rangers treat another HACE patient; also a current conditions report from Little Switzerland Field Report, June 24
June 24, 2016
An incident up high yesterday morning resolved itself with help from fellow climbers Field Report, June 17
June 17, 2016
Climber with severe HAPE evacuated from high camp early this morning Field Report, May 27
May 27, 2016
Weather forecast was literally blown off the dry erase board at 14K The Science of Poop
May 25, 2016
Because we take poop seriously on Denali we are continuing studies regarding the breakdown and movement of human waste crevassed on the Kahiltna Glacier. Additionally we are gathering information on snow accumulation, melt and movement of the glacier. Field Report, May 18
May 18, 2016
Patrol #1 replaced a portion of the fixed lines yesterday; windy up high Field Report, May 13
May 13, 2016
Crosson repeater finally in; NPS rangers and slingloads both arrive at 14K Kahiltna Peaks Patrol Report
May 04, 2016
Photos and trip report from recent patrol on West and East Kahiltna Peaks Field Report, May 3
May 03, 2016
The first Denali 'set-up' patrol is in Talkeetna, prepping for their Thursday launch Field Report, April 29
April 29, 2016
Lots of new route condition updates from throughout the Alaska Range Field Report, April 26
April 26, 2016
22 climbers now on Denali; first patient of the season evacuated. Field Report, April 25
April 25, 2016
Big thanks to the U.S. Army HART team who hauled in NPS camp gear over the weekend Field Report, April 22
April 22, 2016
Not much new to report, just a change in statistics and a new pretty photo Eldridge Glacier Patrol Report
August 03, 2015
Photos and field observations from an early July patrol on the Eldridge Glacier, including a packraft exit to the Parks Highway via Ohio Creek Field Report, July 13
July 13, 2015
Late season conditions update from both the West Buttress and the Muldrow Field Report, July 2
July 02, 2015
A rainy night at Basecamp, with a snowy night above. But on the bright side -- fun wedding photos! Field Report, June 30
June 30, 2015
Summit percentage is approaching 60% as teams report great conditions and weather up high Field Report, June 16
June 16, 2015
Lower glacier still holding out, though some light rockfall due to warming temps Field Report, June 15
June 15, 2015
Rangers assist a frostbite patient, plus a USGS survey team heads into the Range to update the elevation of Denali Field Report, June 11
June 11, 2015
Weather still a little rough, but a good forecast is on the horizon Field Report, June 8
June 08, 2015
At last, a nice weekend. Plus shared photos (and now VIDEO too!!) from a recent Huntington climb... Field Report, May 28
May 28, 2015
First summit of the spring season was recorded yesterday, with more anticipated in the days to come Field Report, May 26
May 26, 2015
Hard slab avalanche was triggered near the fixed lines yesterday afternoon Field Report, May 21
May 21, 2015
Trail around Windy Corner has been re-routed; severe winds persist up high Ruth Glacier Patrol - SW Face of Mt. Dan Beard
April 30, 2015
Observations and route conditions the last week of April 2015 Field Report, April 27
April 27, 2015
The first Field Report of the season, containing registration statistics, weather observations, ranger update, and an early conditions report. |
Last updated: July 21, 2015