Field Report, June 24, 2023

June 24, 2023 Posted by: Maureen Gualtieri

 

TODAY'S STATS - 6/24/23	Denali	Mt. Foraker
Registered Climbers	1,019	4
Climbers Currently On Mountain	290	0
Completed Climbs	710	4
Number of Summits	256	0
Summit Percentage	36%	0%

The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call [phone].

 
An estimated 50 climbers or so were backed up on the lower mountain, and most all flew out yesterday -- their numbers are not yet reflected above.  
 

Mountain Weather
 

7K    (7 AM)  Gabby says "good morning! 35 F, calm, scattered high clouds & otherwise quite nice out here!"

14K   Alan says it fairly nice at 14K as well, but 11K remains socked in.


Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation.  

MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams. 

The National Weather Service publishes their mountain-specific forecast here: Denali Climbing Forecast

The FAA webcam on the Kahiltna Glacier has yet to be installed for the 2023 season, but we'll let you now when its up and operational.

Conditions Reports

Ranger Travis Baldwin just flew out of the range yesterday afternoon, reporting a very mushy snow conditions below Ski Hill but snow coverage remains decent. Hasn't heard of anyone popping through.

On the upper mountain, Alan reports "Lots of shoveling through storms with an occasional break on the evenings to have a sunset acclimatizing ski.  After a giant push led from multiple guide services breaking trail in thigh deep snow up to washburns thumb, Avalanche conditions have largely shut down efforts on the upper mountain."

Mountain Trip guide Josh Jesperson just shared these two images from Washburn's Thumb taken two days ago, giving an indication of deep snow conditions on the ridge.  Sounds like most teams turned around just before Washburn's Thumb. Rumor is that only 4 exposed pickets are visible, with the rest buried in snow. The Denali Pass traverse, visible in the distance on the lower photo, is likely in a similar condition.




(Photos above courtesy of Josh Jesperson, MTI)

Search and Rescue Activity

Since the June 15th rescue-rama, a whole week went by without an incident. Since yesterday, rangers have been in radio contact with an independent climber with a dislocated shoulder at 11,000 feet. Excruciating pain levels were prohibiting further descent.  Although Basecamp cleared up enough for flights in and out, weather conditions at 11,000 feet remained cloudy and unconducive to flying. If clouds dissipate at 11K today, an evacuation sounds likely.

Ranger Reports 

14K Patrol #6 (Baldwin)  The patrol flew out of basecamp yesterday, their scheduled day out. Their descent conditions are posted above.

14K Patrol #7 (Davis)  Alan and crew welcomed the members of Patrol #8 to 14K on Wednesday, the same day Patrol #6 moved down to basecamp.  They are keeping an eye on the weather up high, and will likely climb the fixed lines today if wind and snow allow.  It'll be a day trip, as winds are forecasted to be 30+ mph through the weekend.  In the meantime, they are maintaining communications with a guided team currently assisting the injured climber at 11K, hoping to orchestrate an evacuation. 

14K Patrol #8 (Bomba)  As mentioned above, Patrol #8 is just getting settled into the rhythms of 14K camp.  With all of last week's commotion, we didn't get a chance to introduce the team, but better late than never!  The 2023 Red Lantern patrol is lead by Mountaineering ranger Chelsea Bomba, she is joined by returning VIP Taylor Guetschow, VIP Diana Jenson, VIP Cy Conrad, and VIP Daniel Reass.  As the last patrol of the 2023 season, in addition to responding to incidents that arise, the team is tasked with the final pack-up of 14 camp.  



From left to right: Ranger Chelsea Bomba, VIP Diana Jenson, VIP Daniel Reass, VIP Cy Conrad, and VIP Taylor Guetschow.  (NPS Photo / Mik Dalpes)
 

Photo of the Day
 

 A glimpse at how patrol members stay rescue-ready in the 14K communications tent. (NPS Photo / Eric Wickenheiser)