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TODAY'S STATS - 5/27/22 |
Denali |
Mt. Foraker |
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Registered Climbers |
1,107 |
15 |
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Climbers Currently On Mountain |
533 |
4 |
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Completed Climbs |
75 |
3 |
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Number of Summits |
28 |
0 |
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Summit Percentage |
37% |
0% |
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The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call (907) 733-9127. |
As of May 27, there are 34 registered backcountry users exploring the Alaska Range:
- 17 in Upper Kahiltna
- 8 in the Upper Ruth
- 4 on Mount Hunter
- 1 on the Tokositna Glacier
- 4 in the Kichatna Spires
Mountain Weather
Wednesday, May 27: Gabby Faurot at basecamp reports “a good morning. 33 F, moderate down glacier winds with gusts up around 20 mph, mostly clear."
Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation. MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams.
Click here for the National Weather Service Denali Climbing Forecast
The FAA webcam on the Kahiltna Glacier -- Hooray! After much toil, Ranger Joe and FAA tech Adam were successful in getting the webcam on the Kahiltna operational yesterday. Unfortunately, the fruits of their labor are not visible yet on the FAA website as of press time Friday...but hopefully the On switch will get triggered before the busy holiday weekend for all the world to see. Give the link above a try!
Conditions Reports
(One last time for the long weekend ahead...) Heads up climbers, the snow on the lower Kahiltna has entered into it's seasonal transitional phase. We are seeing temperatures above freezing for the first time at basecamp in the late afternoon (36 F 2C at 6pm) and freezing temperatures at night and into mid morning. When the snowpack enters this phase the snow bridges covering crevasses are difficult to detect and become weak in the late afternoon evening. Be diligent with your rope work, probe your camp sites and establish marked safe areas when unroped.
As mentioned in the Search and Rescue section of previous Field Reports, last week saw a fatal crevasse fall on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. A group working under a commercial filming permit were each experienced outdoor film makers and skiing without a rope at approximately 8,200 feet when the fall occurred. This is a tragic reminder that glacier conditions are constantly changing with temperature swings above or below freezing throughout the season, as well as subtle changes due to glacier movement. Areas that have been used by others may appear safe and crevasse-free, but may change throughout the day and the season.~Tucker Chenoweth, South District Ranger
Continued COVID Caution
There continues to be MANY reports of COVID in and around Talkeetna, Denali NP rangers strongly encourage preventative measures to ensure climbers don’t contract the virus before their flight into the Alaska Range. These measures include the CDC recommendations of staying up-to-date on vaccinations and boosters; wearing a mask when indoors; social distancing when possible; and washing hands frequently.
These precautions are especially important in the two weeks before your expedition start date and during your time in Talkeetna! You have likely invested a great deal of money, time, and energy into planning this expedition. Don't let COVID-19 ruin that investment.
COVID testing is available daily in downtown Talkeetna by the non-profit partner Denali Education Center (click for more info), however testing does not take the place of prevention. The virus, particularly with the current variants, is not always detectable in asymptomatic individuals.
Search and Rescue
Ouch -- a False InReach activation -- Well, on the bright side, yesterday evening's false alarm happened just before dinner time -- at least it wasn't at 2 AM like they have been in the past. We don't have the full story yet, but a climber's InReach was accidently triggered around 4:30 pm at the 14,200-foot camp. Rangers and VIPs scoured 14K camp, but were unable to locate the culprit. But then the SOS dispatch center was able to link rangers at the Talkeetna Ranger Station to the device in real time, so they were able to track the blips as they descended to 11,000-foot camp. Guides in that camp were notified and able to contact the team in question, who promptly de-activated their device.
From earlier in the week: A patient with significant frostbite to four fingers and one ear was evacuated on Wednesday from the 14,200-foot camp.
On the topic of cold injuries (but unrelated to the patient mentioned above) we’ll take this opportunity for a few reminders for inbound climbers: Remember ski boots are not as well insulated as mountain boots. Tight fitting ski boots can be particularly problematic at upper elevations both due to the extreme cold temperatures and the fact that feet swell at altitude.
Also, from the rangers at 14,200 camp, if you start noticing signs of frostbite on your way UP, then turn around and take care of the cold injuries right away. Summits are not worth the cost of fingers and toes!
Ranger Reports
NPS 14K Patrol #2 (Oken) The team packed and headed up the fixed lines for 17K today. Enthusiasm was high. However, as of ~4pm Friday, sounded like they were going to follow the lead set by several guided teams and turn around and head back to 14K due to high winds (the 16K ridge was described to them as a "hazardous hell-hole").
NPS 14K Patrol #3 (Baldwin/Ramos-Leon) Patrol #3 enjoyed getting to know everyone in camp last night during their search for the activated InReach device. They were excited to take over camp operations from Patrol #2, but looks like they may have to share for at least one more night.
NPS 14K Patrol #5 (Bomba) Still at basecamp, working on crevasse rescue skills, no doubt.
A thank you note to the women of Patrol #2 from Wednesday's grateful frostbite patient. (NPS Photo/Chrissie Oken.)
Denali Rescue Volunteers
Learn more about Denali Rescue Volunteers, an organization that helps make Denali National Park and Preserve's mountaineering operations whole! Thank you for all that you do each season, from helping equipping our volunteers, housing them before and after patrols, and supporting our recruitment process!
Photo of the Day
VIPs Jesse Quillian and Kori Landauer practicing knot passes at the 14,200 foot camp. (NPS Photo/Chrissie Oken)