Field Report, May 30, 2022

May 30, 2022 Posted by: Maureen Gualtieri
 

TODAY'S STATS - 5/30/22

    Denali    

Mt. Foraker

Registered Climbers

1,105

15

Climbers Currently On Mountain

595

4

Completed Climbs

86

3

Number of Summits

31

0

Summit Percentage

36%

0%

The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call (907) 733-9127.



As of May 30, there are 32 registered backcountry users exploring the Alaska Range:

  • 13 in Upper Kahiltna
  • 6 in the Upper Ruth
  • 6 on Mount Hunter
  • 1 on the Tokositna Glacier
  • 6 in the Kichatna Spires


Mountain Weather


This morning Steve Mock at 7K reported a gentle down glacier breeze, temps in the high 20’s F, and patchy clouds at roughly the summit of Mount Frances.   Travis at 14K reported some intermittent cloud cover below him, but skies were clear at 14K and above.  No wind.

Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation.  MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams. 

Click here for the National Weather Service Denali Climbing Forecast

The FAA webcam on the Kahiltna Glacier is fully operational as of this past weekend. Look for the green dot labelled Kahiltna Glacier.


Conditions Reports


A windy few days at upper elevations kept teams hunkered down at high camp, but conditions shifted Saturday night and Sunday allowing for a sizeable pulse of summits over the weekend, continuing into today.  Many happy teams are rolling into Talkeetna this afternoon, so we suspect the summit percentage to climb by Wednesday’s next Field Report.  Some conditions-related notes taken today during check-backs:

  • Some anchors on the fixed lines were starting to melt out, but Patrol #3 went up yesterday and made the necessary repairs.
     
  • Climbers reported random urine spots around high camp, so if you are heading up Denali in the days/weeks to come, remember to consolidate urine at main camps – it makes for a cleaner camp environment, not to mention it significantly improves the water quality for drinking and cooking.


Continued COVID Caution


Everyday we continue to hear of new COVID cases in and around Talkeetna, thus Denali NP rangers strongly encourage preventative measures to ensure climbers don’t contract the virus before their flight into the Alaska Range. These measures include the CDC recommendations of staying up-to-date on vaccinations and boosters; wearing a mask when indoors; social distancing when possible; and washing hands frequently.  Also, no hugs.

These precautions are especially important in the two weeks before your expedition start date and during your time in Talkeetna! You have likely invested a great deal of money, time, and energy into planning this expedition. Don't let COVID-19 ruin that investment.

COVID testing is available daily in downtown Talkeetna by the non-profit partner Denali Education Center (click for more info), however testing does not take the place of prevention.  The virus, particularly with the current variants, is not always detectable in asymptomatic individuals.


Search and Rescue 
 

Mountaineering rangers and volunteers treated and ultimately evacuated two patients (different teams) for medical issues at the 17,200-foot high camp this holiday weekend, including one case of HAPE at the end of a summit day.

In our favorite category of “Not a Search and Rescue”, climbers checking back at the Talkeetna Ranger Station today reported witnessing a successful self-arrest on the traverse to Denali Pass.  A member of a three-person rope team stumbled and fell, but teammates were able to quickly self-arrest.  End of story!  


Ranger Reports



NPS 14K Patrol #2 (Oken)  After cancelling their plan to ascend to high camp on Friday, May 27 due to high winds, Chrissie and crew ascended to 17K on Saturday instead.  Once situated in camp, they treated and evacuated a medical patient on Sunday, May 29.  They took in their second patient of the weekend just past midnight this morning. After that patient was evacuated today, the team decided to join the parade headed towards the summit on this beautiful, calm afternoon. 

NPS 14K Patrol #3 (Baldwin/Ramos-Leon)  Travis and Kakiko’s patrol headed up the fixed lines yesterday to take care of some anchor maintenance. Today they helped relay communications for the medical evacuation at 17K. Otherwise, 14K camp is remarkably quiet today (maybe about a dozen in camp) despite almost 600 on Denali – most are either on their descent and passing through 14K, or have headed up yesterday or early this morning.

NPS 14K Patrol #5 (Bomba)  Sounds like Chelsea and team moved up to 11K yesterday, and are enjoying a rest day today. They are also probably watching a steady stream of teams descending the mountain en route to Talkeetna.

NPS 7K Patrol #3 (Mock)   In earlier episodes of the Field Reports, we introduced you to uber-volunteer and DRV president Steve Mock. Steve is now hosting the current Basecamp patrol, joined by two other seasoned volunteers, Leo Lloyd and Eric Wickenheiser.  They flew to the Kahiltna on Saturday, May 28, and were well positioned to assist with two medical evacuations. Leo flew out as medical attendant with today’s patient, but will fly back in tomorrow on a research-related flight.


Also, a great listen!  South District Ranger Tucker Chenoweth joined Denali NP Public Affairs Officer Sharon Stiteler as guests of Alaska Public Media’s radio podcast Outdoor Explorer.  Host Lisa Keller interviewed them both about the 2022 season – addressing not only general tourism (dogs, birds, moose, bikes!) in the Park, but also a good long look at mountaineering operations. You can stream the Outdoor Explorer podcast here.  Tucker covers everything from the history of climbing Denali, the importance of team dynamics, and a look at mountaineering trends on Denali and Everest.



Three climbers stand outside the open door of a helicopter
The Primary colors of Basecamp Patrol #3 -- from left to right, VIP Steve Mock, VIP Eric Wickenheiser, and VIP Leo Lloyd.  (NPS Photo/Joe Reichert)
 

Denali Rescue Volunteers



DRV logo 

Learn more about Denali Rescue Volunteers, an organization that helps make Denali National Park and Preserve's mountaineering operations whole! Thank you for all that you do each season, from helping equipping our volunteers, housing them before and after patrols, and supporting our recruitment process! 
 
 

Photo of the Day
 

A climber takes an oath in front of an American flag with Mount Hunter in the backdropOn this Memorial Day, we honor those military personnel who have died while serving in the United States armed forces.  We also extend our gratitude to all members of the military who serve this nation, including those who also serve the Denali climbing community.  Above, in red, is US Air National Guard Pararescueman (PJ) Tony Yusup, currently cross-training on Denali 14K Patrol #3 on active military orders.  Yesterday, as Yusup and the rest of Patrol #3 was maintaining the fixed lines, a team of Yusup's fellow Anchorage-based Pararescuemen on their own training expedition on Denali held a high altitude swearing-in ceremony to honor Tony, who recently re-enlisted for another tour of duty.  Thank you PJ's for all you do for this mountain. (Photo courtesy of the Pararescuemen of the 212th Rescue Squadron)       

We also extend our gratitude to the 242nd U.S. Army Sugarbears from Fort Wainwright in Fairbanks for all your heavy lifting at the start and finish of the Denali climbing season.
   

Last updated: May 30, 2022

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Mailing Address:

PO Box 9
Denali Park, AK 99755

Phone:

907 683-9532
A ranger is available 9 am to 4 pm daily (except on major holidays). If you reach the voicemail, please leave a message and we'll call you back as soon as we finish with the previous caller.

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