Field Report, April 27, 2023

April 27, 2023 Posted by: Maureen Gualtieri

 

TODAY'S STATS - 4/27/23	Denali	Mt. Foraker
Registered Climbers	812	6
Climbers Currently On Mountain	12	0
Completed Climbs	1	0
Number of Summits	1	0
Summit Percentage	100%	0%

The Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station also maintains an almost daily automated statistics phone line, so if this blog is lagging behind and you need up-to-date registration numbers, call [phone].

Yes, that's right -- the 2023 spring mountaineering season begins with a 100% summit rate!  Congratulations to winter soloist Jost Kobusch for returning safely from his February ascent of Denali.  Jost reached the summit Sunday, February 19, 2023.  For more information on his climb, see his Facebook posts that describe his route, his gear, and his experience.  

 

Mountain Weather
 

NPS Patrol #1 headed into basecamp today, shortly in advance of an approaching weather system.  We look forwarding to hearing about weather conditions at basecamp in the days to come.  Basecamp manager Gabby Faurot will set up her camp tomorrow, weather permitting, and will share daily observations throughout the season.

Weather station telemetry data from 7K and 14K are transmitted hourly to the MesoWest website, including temperatures, wind speed, wind direction, snowfall, and solar radiation.  MountainWeather.com compiles a Denali Weather page, complete with links to the MesoWest data, the NWS Denali Climbing Forecasts, as well as links to FAA webcams. 

Starting May 1, the National Weather Service will publish their here: Denali Climbing Forecast

The FAA webcam on the Kahiltna Glacier has yet to be installed for the 2023 season, but we'll let you now when its up and operational.

Backcountry Conditions Reports
 

There are currently 81 permitted climbers and skiers in the park's glaciated backcountry, distributed as follows:

4 on the Peters Glacier
11 in the Upper Kahiltna
7 on the Buckskin Glacier
40 in the Upper Ruth
2 on Mount Hunter
14 in Little Switzerland
3 in the Kichatnas

Conditions reports submitted to date:  (if you don't see what you are looking for, be sure to review the past few Field Reports for more observations. We are only sharing new entries in the Conditions Report binder each Field Report)

Mount Hunter (dated 4/23/23) - "Attempted the Mini-Moonflower, which was in good ice conditions leading up to the crux pitch. The crux was unfortunately dry with a snow mushroom above the chimney. The bergschrund as well was slightly overhanging and undercut with faceted snow, but protectable in places."

Mount Huntington (dated 4/18/23) - "West Face Couoir – Route was in great condition.”

Mount Huntington (dated 4/23/23)  "Colton-Leach – Cornice at top of CL ice couloir stopped us.”

Buckskin Glacier (dated 4/24/23) "Buckskin Glacier ski report: 6 inches of powder no all north faces, all other aspects have sun crust 2+ inches thick, unsupportable by 10 am. No signs of avalanches on N aspects, south-facing slopes falling apart day and night."

SW Ridge 11300 (4/26/23)  "SW Ridge 11300, poor snow conditions – breakable crust over facets. Slow going, we had 2 bivvies and were 55 hours camp to camp."

Ranger Reports

14K Patrol #1 (Reichert/Kayes) - The first Denali patrol of the season is led by longtime mountaineering ranger Joe Reichert and first season ranger Jake Kayes, who fly into the Alaska Range today.  While this is Jake's first patrol in the NPS uniform, he is no stranger to Denali, having commercially guided expeditions up the West Buttress for the past decade.  We are excited to welcome Jake to the team!  Joe and Jake are joined by four mountaineering Volunteers-in-Parks (VIP's):

Front row, l to r:  VIP Dr. Daniel Ballew, VIP Alec Butler, NPS Ranger Joe Reichert. Back row: VIP Jonah Olson, VIP Jake Ephron, and NPS Ranger Jake Kayes.  (NPS Photo)

In addition to the standard patrol responsibilities of responding to emergencies, providing route and policy information, and keeping the mountain environment clean, this first patrol of the 2023 season have a list of added responsibilties.  They will help wand the main trail and latrine locations where needed; dig out and construct the NPS camp infrastructure and communications at the 14,200-foot camp; and if time allows, they will begin work on assessing and maintaining the fixed lines up to 16,200 feet.  We will report back their impressions of the snowpack and general conditions, as well as any interesting stories they encounter.

 

Photo of the Day

Fairbanks-based U.S. Army team Bravo Company 1-52, aka the “Sugar Bears” once again did all the heavy lifting in transporting the NPS camp infrastructure safely to the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier.  In the days to come, all gear destined for 14,200-foot camp will get shuttled up by the park's contracted A-Star B3e helicopter.  The first Basecamp patrol of the season flies into the Range in the next couple days, and will begin the job of constructing the 7K camp.  (NPS Photo/Debbie Reiswig)