The story of Arches begins roughly 65 million years ago. At that time, the area was a dry seabed spreading from horizon to horizon. If you stood in Devils Garden then, the striking red rock features we see today would have been buried thousands of feet below you, raw material as yet uncarved. Then the landscape slowly began to change.
First, geologic forces wrinkled and folded the buried sandstone, as if it were a giant rug and someone gathered two edges towards each other, making lumps across the middle called Anticlines. As the sandstone warped, fractures tore through it, establishing the patterns for rock sculptures of the future.
Next, the entire region began to rise, climbing from sea level to thousands of feet in elevation. What goes up must come down, and the forces of erosion carved layer after layer of rock away. Once exposed, deeply buried sandstone layers rebounded and expanded, like a sponge expands after it's squeezed (though not quite so quickly). This created even more fractures, each one a pathway for water to seep into the rock and further break it down.
Today, water shapes this environment more than any other force. Rain erodes the rock and carries sediment down washes and canyons to the Colorado River. Desert varnish appears where water cascades off cliffs. In winter, snowmelt pools in fractures and other cavities, then freezes and expands, breaking off chunks of sandstone. Small recesses develop and grow bigger with each storm. Little by little, this process turns fractured rock layers into fins, and fins into arches. Arches also emerge when potholes near cliff edges grow deeper and deeper until they wear through the cliff wall below them. In addition to grand arches, water dissolves small honeycomb formations called tafoni.
Over time, the same forces that created these arches will continue to widen them until they collapse. Standing next to a monolith like Delicate Arch, it's easy to forget that arches are impermanent. Yet the fall of Wall Arch in 2008 reminded us that this landscape continues to change. While some may fall, most of these arches will stand well beyond our lifetime: a lifetime blessed with an improbable landscape 65 million years in the making.
NPS/Neal Herbert
Why So Many Arches?
Arches National Park has the densest concentration of natural stone arches in the world. There are over 2,000 documented arches in the park, ranging from sliver-thin cracks to spans greater than 300 feet (97 m). Why are there so many arches in this place? How do they form? And what is an arch, anyway?
First, you need the right kinds of rock.
Sandstone is made of grains of sand cemented together by minerals, but not all sandstone is the same. The Entrada Sandstone was once a massive desert, full of shifting dunes of fine-grained sand. They formed a hard rock that is very porous (full of tiny spaces), while The Carmel Formation, made of sand and clays, is softer and resists water.
Crack it into parallel lines.
Deep beneath the surface lies a thick layer of salts. Squeezed by rock above and below, the salt bulged upward, creating long domes. The rock layers covering these domes were forced to crack, like the surface of freshly-baked bread, into a series of more-or-less parallel lines.
Next, add the right amount of rain.
On average, the park receives 8-10 inches (18-23 cm) of precipitation a year. That might not sound like much, but it’s enough to keep the engines of erosion working 24 hours a day, 365 days a year.
Rainwater soaks into the porous Entrada Sandstone easily, but gets trapped by the Carmel. It can slowly dissolve the calcite bonding the sand together—in other words, rotting rock from the inside out. In winter, water trapped in cracks expands when it freezes, then contracts, prying the rock apart.
If the park received too much precipitation, the sandstone could erode so quickly that arches might not have time to form. If it never rained here, the engines of erosion would stop.
Let the water do its work.
As erosion happens, a variety of shapes begin to appear. Rock walls erode into fins, then holes form. To be one of the park’s official stone arches, a hole must have an opening of at least three feet (1 m) in any one direction. There is no requirement for width; many arches in the park are so skinny you have to place your cheek against the rock to see any light through them.
Is a window a special kind of arch? Not really. “Windows” are arches that are particularly large, are located on a high wall or fin, or “frame” a particularly scenic view beyond.
What about bridges? A natural bridge spans a waterway—or somewhere water once ran. Very few bridges exist at Arches, but Natural Bridges National Monument, just two hours south of here, has three tremendous examples of this feature. All of them are visible from a paved road or hiking trail.
Make sure your rocks don’t rock and roll.
Luckily, earthquakes are rare in this area, otherwise these massive outdoor rock sculptures would splinter and collapse. The fact that over 2,000 still stand tells us this area has been rather geologically stable for at least 50,000 years.
Lastly, pick the right time to visit. (You did.)
The rock layers visible in the park today were once buried by over a mile of other rock that had to erode first to expose what lay beneath. Visitors millions of years ago might have seen a wide flat plain dotted with vegetation. Imagine a visit far into the future, when these layers have fully worn away. What new rock shapes might you discover then
Locations:Aniakchak National Monument & Preserve, Arches National Park, Big Bend National Park, Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Bryce Canyon National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Chaco Culture National Historical Park, Colorado National Monument, Curecanti National Recreation Area, Denali National Park & Preserve, Dinosaur National Monument, Gettysburg National Military Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Katmai National Park & Preserve, Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, Mesa Verde National Park, Navajo National Monument, Petrified Forest National Park, Pipe Spring National Monument, Rainbow Bridge National Monument, Springfield Armory National Historic Site, Valley Forge National Historical Park, Wrangell - St Elias National Park & Preserve, Yellowstone National Park, Yukon - Charley Rivers National Preserve, Zion National Parkmore »
Offices:Geologic Resources Division
Dinosaur fossils have been discovered at or are associated with at least 27 NPS units. Geographically, their finds are concentrated in the parks of the Colorado Plateau, but they have been found from central Alaska to Big Bend National Park in Texas to Springfield Armory National Historic Site in Massachusetts. The most famous site is the Dinosaur Quarry of Dinosaur National Monument, but a rush of new finds since the 1970s has greatly expanded our knowledge.
Each park-specific page in the NPS Geodiversity Atlas provides basic information on the significant geologic features and processes occurring in the park. Links to products from Baseline Geologic and Soil Resources Inventories provide access to maps and reports.
Locations:Arches National Park, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Colorado National Monument, Death Valley National Park, Dinosaur National Monument, El Malpais National Monument, El Morro National Monument, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Hovenweep National Monument, Joshua Tree National Park, Mesa Verde National Park, Mojave National Preserve, Natural Bridges National Monument, Navajo National Monument, Petrified Forest National Park, Petroglyph National Monument, Rainbow Bridge National Monument, Saguaro National Park, Walnut Canyon National Monument, Yosemite National Park, Zion National Parkmore »
Offices:Geologic Resources Division
Ever wondered what those dark lines were on the rock walls of canyon country? These black, brown, and red streaks are called desert varnish.
Locations:Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Colorado National Monument
A bouquet of tiny arches? A miniature cave system?
Known as honeycomb weathering or "swiss-cheese rock," tafoni (singular: tafone) are small, rounded, smooth-edged openings in a rock surface, most often found in arid or semi-arid deserts.
Locations:Arches National Park, Bandelier National Monument, Big Bend National Park, Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Chaco Culture National Historical Park, City Of Rocks National Reserve, Colorado National Monument, Craters Of The Moon National Monument & Preserve, Curecanti National Recreation Area, Death Valley National Park, Dinosaur National Monument, El Malpais National Monument, Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, Glacier National Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Golden Spike National Historical Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Great Basin National Park, Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Joshua Tree National Park, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Lava Beds National Monument, Mesa Verde National Park, Mojave National Preserve, Natural Bridges National Monument, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Petrified Forest National Park, Pipe Spring National Monument, Saguaro National Park, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, Timpanogos Cave National Monument, Walnut Canyon National Monument, Wupatki National Monument, Yellowstone National Parkmore »
Offices:Geologic Resources Division
In the western United States, packrat middens are one of the best tools for reconstructing recent environments and climates. These accumulations of plant fragments, small vertebrate remains, rodent droppings, and other fossils can be preserved for more than 50,000 years. Packrat middens have been found in at least 41 National Park Service units.
Locations:Arches National Park, Bandelier National Monument, Big Bend National Park, Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Chaco Culture National Historical Park, Channel Islands National Park, City Of Rocks National Reserve, Colorado National Monument, Craters Of The Moon National Monument & Preserve, Curecanti National Recreation Area, Death Valley National Park, Dinosaur National Monument, El Malpais National Monument, Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument, Glacier National Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Golden Spike National Historical Park, Grand Canyon National Park, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Grand Teton National Park, Great Basin National Park, Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Joshua Tree National Park, Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Lava Beds National Monument, Mesa Verde National Park, Mojave National Preserve, Natural Bridges National Monument, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Petrified Forest National Park, Pipe Spring National Monument, Saguaro National Park, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, Timpanogos Cave National Monument, Tule Springs Fossil Beds National Monument, Walnut Canyon National Monument, Wupatki National Monument, Yellowstone National Parkmore »
All across the park system, scientists, rangers, and interpreters are engaged in the important work of studying, protecting, and sharing our rich fossil heritage. Park Paleontology news provides a close up look at the important work of caring for these irreplaceable resources.
Contribute to Park Paleontology News by contacting the newsletter editor
Locations:Agate Fossil Beds National Monument, Alibates Flint Quarries National Monument, Aniakchak National Monument & Preserve, Appalachian National Scenic Trail, Arches National Park, Badlands National Park, Bandelier National Monument, Big Bend National Park, Big South Fork National River & Recreation Area, Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area, Blue Ridge Parkway, Boston Harbor Islands National Recreation Area, Bryce Canyon National Park, Buffalo National River, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Capulin Volcano National Monument, Carlsbad Caverns National Park, Cedar Breaks National Monument, Chaco Culture National Historical Park, Channel Islands National Park, Chesapeake & Ohio Canal National Historical Park, Chickasaw National Recreation Area, Chiricahua National Monument, City Of Rocks National Reserve, Colonial National Historical Park, Crater Lake National Park, Craters Of The Moon National Monument & Preserve, Cumberland Gap National Historical Park, Cuyahoga Valley National Park, Death Valley National Park, Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area, Denali National Park & Preserve, Devils Postpile National Monument, Devils Tower National Monument, Dinosaur National Monument, El Malpais National Monument, Florissant Fossil Beds National Monument, Fossil Butte National Monument, Gates Of The Arctic National Park & Preserve, George Washington Memorial Parkway, Glacier National Park, Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Grand Canyon National Park, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument, Grand Teton National Park, Great Basin National Park, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument, Haleakalā National Park, Harpers Ferry National Historical Park, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park, Jewel Cave National Monument, John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, Joshua Tree National Park, Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument, Katmai National Park & Preserve, Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park, Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site, Kobuk Valley National Park, Lake Clark National Park & Preserve, Lake Mead National Recreation Area, Lassen Volcanic National Park, Lava Beds National Monument, Mammoth Cave National Park, Mesa Verde National Park, Mississippi National River & Recreation Area, Missouri National Recreational River, Mojave National Preserve, Mount Rainier National Park, Natchez Trace Parkway, Natural Bridges National Monument, New River Gorge National Park & Preserve, Niobrara National Scenic River, Noatak National Preserve, Obed Wild & Scenic River, Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, Ozark National Scenic Riverways, Petrified Forest National Park, Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, Pinnacles National Park, Pipestone National Monument, Prince William Forest Park, Puʻukoholā Heiau National Historic Site, Rainbow Bridge National Monument, Rock Creek Park, Rocky Mountain National Park, Russell Cave National Monument, Saguaro National Park, Saint Croix National Scenic Riverway, Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area, Scotts Bluff National Monument, Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks, Shenandoah National Park, Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument, Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve, Theodore Roosevelt National Park, Tonto National Monument, Tule Springs Fossil Beds National Monument, Upper Delaware Scenic & Recreational River, Valles Caldera National Preserve, Valley Forge National Historical Park, Vicksburg National Military Park, Voyageurs National Park, Waco Mammoth National Monument, Walnut Canyon National Monument, Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, Wind Cave National Park, Wrangell - St Elias National Park & Preserve, Wupatki National Monument, Yellowstone National Park, Yosemite National Park, Yukon - Charley Rivers National Preserve, Zion National Parkmore »
The National Park System contains a magnificent record of geologic time because rocks from each period of the geologic time scale are preserved in park landscapes. The geologic time scale is divided into four large periods of time—the Cenozoic Era, Mesozoic Era, Paleozoic Era, and The Precambrian.
Locations:Arches National Park, Badlands National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Gulf Islands National Seashore, Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument, Petrified Forest National Park, Tule Springs Fossil Beds National Monument, Vicksburg National Military Park, Yellowstone National Park, Zion National Parkmore »
All across the park system, scientists, rangers, and interpreters are engaged in the important work of studying, protecting, and sharing our rich fossil heritage. Park Paleontology news provides a close up look at the important work of caring for these irreplaceable resources.
Contribute to Park Paleontology News by contacting the newsletter editor
Locations:Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park, Capitol Reef National Park, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Zion National Park
Offices:Geologic Resources Division
The Utah Geological Survey has worked in partnership with the National Park Service to document the fossils of Utah’s national parks for 20 years, helping to bring to light and protect a wide variety of fossils.
Locations:Arches National Park, Dinosaur National Monument, Katmai National Park & Preserve, Lake Clark National Park & Preserve, Rainbow Bridge National Monument, Wrangell - St Elias National Park & Preserve
Offices:Geologic Resources Division
Dinosaur National Monument is home to thousands of dinosaur fossils making it a true “Jurassic Park.” A vast desert covered Southwest North America in the Jurassic, and ancient sand dunes now form tall cliffs in many parks including Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.