Season 1
1. The Legacy of Fire at Point Reyes
Transcript
The Natural Laboratory: The Legacy of Fire at Point Reyes
JERIMIAH OETTING: Hey everybody, this is Jerimiah Oetting, the Point Reyes Science Communication Intern. Before we get started, I wanted to mention that we are recording this in mid-December, and as of now, parts of the park are still closed due to the Woodward Fire. Before planning a trip up to Point Reyes, be sure to check the park's website or its social media to see what's open. You can still access a ton of the park and have an awesome visit. Happy hiking.
[INTRO MUSIC]
JERIMIAH OETTING: You're listening to the Natural Laboratory from Point Reyes National Seashore. I'm Jerimiah Oetting.
SARAH ALLEN: (FADE IN) You see these oaks; this is a really old oak. It's probably a couple hundred years old.
JERIMIAH OETTING: This is a beautiful oak tree—
SA: It's a beautiful oak tree, and there are a lot of big oaks like this, like there's that one over there by the building, … (FADE OUT)
JRO: I'm walking with Dr. Sarah Allen. She's the former science advisor for Point Reyes National Seashore. We're talking about the Woodward Fire. It burned in the park last summer. She's showing me just how close the burn line got to Morgan Horse Ranch, only a short walk away from the Bear Valley Visitor Center.
The burned grass we're looking at wasn't actually caused by the Woodward Fire. It was started intentionally, by firefighters. It's called a backburn. It's one of the ways firefighters fight fire with fire. The backburn went up the hillside, burning up fuels until it met with the Woodward Fire, and stopped it in its tracks. The plan worked—no structures were burned in the Woodward Fire. Dr. Allen is showing me how bright green grass is already starting to sprout from the burn that firefighters started.
SA: (FADE IN) You can really see the line between burn and not burn, because while this old grass on the left was not burned and whereas on the right it's all emerald green, because that's where it burned down to nothing... (FADE OUT)
JRO: Dr. Allen just retired last year, after 26 years with the park service.
SA: Yes, I grew up in the area, so I spent a lot of time out at Point Reyes when I was a child. And I was able, very fortunately, to get a job with the National Park Service.
JRO: For many residents that live near Point Reyes National Seashore, like Sarah Allen, the Woodward Fire triggered memories of its predecessor—the Vision Fire. The Vision Fire was devastating. It spread fast. At its peak, it grew 3,100 acres every hour. Even though it was officially contained in just two weeks it burned over 12,000 acres. And it destroyed 45 structures—including many homes.
The Woodward Fire started just months before its predecessor's 25th year anniversary.
SA: It was interesting having to rethink about the Vision Fire because I went through both fires. And it brought up a lot of memories.
There were a lot of people who lost their homes, many of whom were friends of mine...just the…the long hours and the smoke and the stress.
JRO: The Woodward Fire was less than half the Vision Fire's size. Under 5,000 acres. Even though it persisted for over a month, the Woodward Fire was less destructive.
I spoke with Greg Jones, the fire management officer for Point Reyes. I wanted to learn why these two fires were so different. He says there are multiple factors
GREG JONES: The Vision Fire started in the fall when our fuel moistures are traditionally at their driest levels during the entire year. And then, there was an ignition, during a very strong wind event.
JRO: The Vision Fire started in a Bishop pine forest—trees that are extremely combustible. The Woodward Fire ended up in Douglas fir…
GJ: So much greener, wetter, heavy fuels, which still certainly burn, but it's just going to take a while to get through those fuels. You know, where it's like you see pictures of the old Vision Fire with kind of that scorched earth landscape. While there are certainly small patches of that in the Woodward Fire, a lot of it burned with very mixed intensities.
JRO: 2020 was a historic fire year in California. As of December 6, the state has had nearly 10,000 fires that have burned about four and a half million acres. It's the largest area burned in a single fire season in the state's modern history.
The infernos plaguing the state elsewhere include the August complex, the first giga-fire that burned over a million acres. Compared to these, the Woodward Fire was tiny. But it did threaten a community. There were so many other fires raging across the state, larger and more destructive ones, resources were stretched thin.
SARAH ALLEN: And that was also what was different because the Vision Fire was the only fire in the state at the time. And so, they were able to get many resources for firefighting here right away. And that did not happen right away with the Woodward Fire because they were competing with some really dangerous scary fires in other parts of the state.
JRO: In 1995, the Vision Fire was California's only fire. In October. At the peak of fire season. These days, that's hard to imagine. Every year, the fire season seems to get longer and more intense. So, what's the deal?
To find out, I spoke with Dr. Patrick Gonzalez. He's a forest ecologist and principal climate change scientist for the National Park Service, He said climate change and fire suppression are to blame.
PATRICK GONZALEZ: The two main factors driving the increase in wildfires across the Western U.S. including Northern California: the outdated policies of suppressing all fires, even natural ones. And, at the same time, the intensification of heat from human-caused climate change.
JRO: Temperatures are rising globally. That makes the hot and dry conditions that lead to wildfire more common. Point Reyes has already experienced an increase in average temperature of about two degrees Fahrenheit in the last century. But Dr. Gonzalez says heat isn't the only concern. Loss of moisture is also a problem. And the characteristic fog along Northern California's coast? That's thinning.
PG: Fog is the most important input of moisture during the summer. So, this combination of increased heat and reduced fog would tend to increase fire risk in Point Reyes National Seashore. The fundamental solution to reduce catastrophic wildfires is cutting the pollution from cars, power plants and other human sources that causes climate change.
JRO: Dr. Gonzaelz says fuel suppression is the other big issue. For almost a century, fire fighters have had a pretty straightforward policy: see a fire and put it out. Immediately. But that philosophy has left the flammable stuff that litters the forest floor to build up on the landscape. Now, it's at unnatural levels. And the West is a tinderbox. All it takes is a spark to set the whole thing off.
Because 2020 is 2020, California got a little bit more than a spark this year. An unprecedented lightning storm shocked the state in August. 12,000 lightning strikes, causing 585 wildfires. The Woodward Fire was just one of them.
We might not be able to control the lightning. But Gonzalez says we can support policies to reduce global warming. And, we can reduce fuels on the landscape. Ironically, one of the best ways to prevent catastrophic wildfires is to let fire do its thing, as much as possible.
PG: Wildfire is an essential and necessary and natural part of many forest and woodland ecosystems across the western US, including in Point Reyes.
JRO: Fire returns nutrients held in vegetation back to the soil. And some species, like Bishop pine, require fire to reproduce. They have "serotinous" cones, meaning their cones don't open unless immersed in the heat of a flame. In shrubby, non-forested areas, the plants depend on regular fires to revitalize the ecosystem and stay healthy.
Greg Jones says they've used fires in the Olema Valley, to reduce fuels, and kill French broom, and invasive shrub. It's a couple hundred acres they burn about every five years.
GREG JONES: In fact, we had some burning planned for this year. But obviously, the Woodward Fire kind of commanded our attention this year, so, we'll hope to get to those next year.
JRO: But he said lately, that has gotten harder.
GJ: Our biggest challenge to even pulling off our burns that we have planned right now, is really our, uh, the windows, um, of opportunity seem to be getting smaller than they used to be.
JRO: To burn safely requires just the right conditions. Usually, the best days are right after the first rains of fall. And because smoke is a concern, a burn requires approval from the Bay Area Air Quality Management District.
GJ: In several recent years, we've gone from, you know, kind of crazy high fire danger, and very destructive fires, you know, just to the north of us. And then it starts to rain. And so, we don't really get that good in-between window.
JRO: Long fire seasons aren't the only obstacle. Jones says there are many areas in the park that are simply too dangerous for a prescribed burn. Like, the stands of bishop pine trees that regrew after the Vision Fire.
GJ: So, there's a large dead and dying component to that forest. Right up along community boundaries. And I'd say, that presents us with some challenges.
The Bishop pine system is a stand replacement fire regime, which means the whole forest is designed to burn. It burns 100%, and so what comes up in the wake of an event, like the Vision Fire, is in an even-aged forest, and it comes up very dense.
JRO: The overcrowded trees compete for limited resources. As a few of them start to dominate, the others die. Jones calls it "self-thinning." It's a natural process. But other stresses, like drought and disease, kill even more trees than usual. What's left is a forest full of fuel.
In those areas, mechanical thinning is the best approach. Jones says they're working on a large fuel break along the community boundary with the park. He calls it a shaded fuel break. They leave large, dominant trees, and remove as much other fuel as possible. And they limb lower branches. That prevents a ground fire from climbing into the crowns of the trees, where it can spread more easily.
Dr. Sarah Allen lives in Inverness close to the park. She says people in the community are wary of more fires, even intentional, controlled ones. The smoke is bad, for one thing.
But living in this part of California, surrounded by fuel, requires making a tradeoff.
GJ: We're not gonna be able to, like, erase fire from Marin County or from a forest, any more than we would be able to stop, like, a flooding event or an earthquake. These fires are gonna burn.
JRO: After living through the Vision Fire, Allen has learned how to be more prepared.
SARAH ALLEN: I have a much healthier respect for living in the community, and how to protect our home and landscaping. So, I do exactly what the Marin County fire crews tell us to do in clearing. And I have a go bag that I have active year-round. Here we are, in December, and we just had a red flag day. So, I have my go bag out ready to go. And I have my evacuation plan that I would never have thought about when I lived before the Vision Fire.
JRO: In the end, Jones says the Woodward Fire was a success story. No homes were lost, there were no serious injuries to the public, or to firefighters.
GREG JONES: We're able to manage long term fire. You know, we'll see, but, you know, perhaps some good ecological benefits, you know. I still acknowledge that there was certainly a large impact on the community in terms of the evacuations. And then the smoke impacts were very real, for quite a long time. You know, not trying to, like, minimize that, but, you know, overall...we did pretty good on this one.
JRO: For California's worst fire season in modern history, and for the rest of 2020, pretty good is about as good as it's gonna to get.
[OUTRO MUSIC]
JRO: Thanks for listening to the Natural Laboratory from Point Reyes National Seashore. The music for this episode, the writing, editing, and production, were all done by me, Science Communication Intern Jerimiah Oetting. Thanks to Dr. Sarah Allen, Dr. Patrick Gonzalez and Greg Jones for their time. And a huge thanks to Ben Becker, Heather Clapp, and everyone at the national park and Point Reyes National Seashore Association for all their support. I'm Jerimiah Oetting and thanks for listening.
Point Reyes National Seashore was part of California's historic wildfire season in 2020. The Woodward Fire was relatively small, but it still threatened nearby communities with evacuations and smoke. In the first podcast episode of the Natural Laboratory series, Science Communication Intern Jerimiah Oetting dives into how the Woodward fire compares to its predecessor, the 1995 Vision Fire. He also explores how climate change and fire suppression drive the increasing intensity of wildfire in the West.