Summer access to facilities and services in Denali remains altered due to the Pretty Rocks Landslide and the associated closure of the Park Road at Mile 43. Check here for more information on what to expect. More
This commercial use authorization permits activities that involve rock, ice or snow climbing and/or glacier travel requiring the use of ropes, ice axes, harnesses, climbing hardware, crampons, specialized clothing, etc.
Park Specific Stipulations: Guided Mountaineering/Climbing
Permitted Activities
Guided mountaineering, climbing, and ski mountaineering are authorized under this permit.
Total group size is 12, inclusive of CUA holder and employees (guides). In Park Management Area D, as defined in the Backcountry Management Plan (BCMP), the maximum group size is 6, including guides.
The CUA holder must only have one group per Backcountry Unit as described in the BCMP.
Guide Certification
Basic first-aid, CPR, and Leave No Trace certifications are required for Denali CUA holders.
Guides and clients must hike on established trails or snow whenever possible.
Guides and clients must remove all of their trash from the Park. Guides are encouraged to remove any additional litter they encounter.
All solid human waste must be managed in accordance with the most current Denali National Park and Preserve human waste policy.
Within one-half mile of glacial landing sites used by aircraft, solid human waste must be collected in a Clean Mountain Can (CMC) or personal receptacle and removed from the Park.
On technical climbing routes, solid human waste must be tossed or shoveled away from the route.
Staffing
Maximum 3 clients per guide.
For mountaineering courses, maximum 5 clients per guide.
Each group will have a Lead Guide who will oversee the climb check-in to check-out.
Clients shall never be left without a guide.
Communication Devices
Each guide must carry a Family Radio Service (FRS) radio and/or satellite device, with sufficient extra batteries.
Guides must be proficient in the use of the communication device and be able to make emergency calls.
At a minimum, FRS radios must be able to transmit and receive on FRS channel 1 (462.5625).
Solo Travel
Guides and clients must travel as an organized group.
Solo travel is prohibited for guides and clients.
Helmet Use
Helmets are required in areas with overhead hazards.
Roped travel requirement
When traveling on glaciers or in other hazardous terrain, guides and clients must travel roped up to a partner.
Guides and clients may un-rope at camps or rest areas on glaciers once the guide has designated a safe area.
Un-roped travel exceptions
Travel conducted on skis
Guides and clients may travel downhill un- roped in glaciated terrain where a fall is unlikely to result in serious injury or death.
Mountaineering courses and ski mountaineering expeditions
When travelling un-roped the Lead Guide must perform the following:
Prior to un-roped travel, the Lead Guide must conduct a visual and physical inspection of the terrain.
Hazardous conditions must be assessed (crevasse hazard, snow condition, avalanche hazard, seracs, rock fall, and weather/visibility).
Assess snowpack instability. A hazard avoidance strategy must be implemented to avoid exposure to larger than D1 avalanches and should be based on avalanche problems and terrain use.
Guides must assess for crevasse hazards.
Guides must manage the terrain to avoid crevasses and/or use a rope for belay when crevasse falls are likely.
Hold a safety briefing before un-roped travel to discuss hazards and boundaries.
Guides must consider other skiers/climbers and avoid creating hazardous.
Additional Regulations and Considerations
Client Screening and Training
The CUA holder must ensure clients are prepared to safely participate in scheduled activities.
The CUA holder must provide education and/or training, before and/or during the trip as appropriate to ensure client safety and education of relevant topics.
CUA trip leaders must check-in, in person, at the Talkeetna Ranger Station within 24 hours of scheduled fly-in date with a copy of their CUA permit.
During check-in, CMCs with biodegradable bags are available for checkout.
CUA trip leaders must check out, in person, at the Talkeetna Ranger Station within 24 hours of the expedition’s return to Talkeetna.
The CUA holder cannot check-in more than 1group per day.
Caching
Caches must be buried at least 1 meter deep.
Caches must be marked with a cache tag that includes CUA holder name, expedition permit number, Lead Guide’s name, air taxi provider and retrieval date.. At least 1 two-meter wand must be used.
All caches must be removed from the Park during the same operating season in which they were placed.
Unmarked and improperly buried caches may be removed by the NPS.
Download or print these stipulations. CUA holders and their employees are responsible for knowing and following all rules.
907 683-9532
A ranger is available 9 am to 4 pm daily (except on major holidays). If you reach the voicemail, please leave a message and we'll call you back as soon as we finish with the previous caller.
