Learn about the history, geology and wildlife of the area as you explore the Nabesna Road, one of two unpaved roads which enter into the interior of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.
Track 1: Slana Ranger Station to Slana River Bridge (Music starts and fades out) Welcome to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, America’s largest national park! What has brought you here? Are you just passing by? Are you curious? Are you here to explore? If you’re looking for a chance to experience Alaskan wilderness, you’ve come to the right place. You’re about to embark on a trip down the Nabesna road: built for a gold mine, yet today providing access to so much more. There is much to discover here! As you drive this road, you’ll catch a glimpse into the interior of Alaska. Today, you may see moose grazing on willow twigs, a herd of caribou trotting through a meadow, or a pair of swans gliding across a lake. As you drive, you’ll see majestic mountains, shaped by glaciers and volcanoes, set within breathtaking landscapes. There is also a fascinating history of people who have made this land their home, both in the past and in the present. The Nabesna Road stretches for 42 scenic miles, and it’s much the same today as it was when it was built back in 1934. Generally, the Nabesna Road is passable by any two-wheel drive vehicle. But sometimes, especially after it has rained, the road may become rough and you may need a four wheel drive vehicle. Please be cautious and take care, as there may be uneven surfaces, potholes, and washouts present. Driving the Nabesna Road can be an adventure! Have fun and take it slow. Soak it in. Pull over, step out of your vehicle, and take a deep breath of the Alaskan air. Drink in the beauty. And take notice of the rich interplay of the wildlife, people, and landscape around you—all held within the wilderness of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 1. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 2 during your drive between the Slana River Bridge and 4-Mile Road Junction.
Track 2: Slana River Bridge to 4-Mile Road Junction (Music starts and fades out) You’ve just crossed over the Slana River, which drains off of the Mentasta Mountains, located to your left as you drive the road. This pristine river empties into the Copper River just two miles downstream from the Slana Bridge, making the Slana River part of the Copper River watershed. This watershed shapes the dramatic landscape of Wrangell-St. Elias, and it is the lifeblood of the park's varied ecosystems. With an abundance of wide open spaces and hundreds of miles of streams draining into the Copper River watershed, Wrangell-St. Elias is home to a tremendous array of fish resources. The Copper River and most of its tributaries are migration routes for sockeye, coho, and king salmon, and pink and chum salmon can be found in the park as well. Adult salmon begin this migration cycle by swimming upstream from the Gulf of Alaska to build a nest, spawn, and deposit their eggs. These fish return to the stream where they were born, bringing a gift of life. After spawning the fish die, but their decomposing bodies become food for other animals, and enrichment for streamside soil and plants within the Copper River watershed. (the sound of running water, babbling stream) Within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, migrating salmon provide a major resource for subsistence and sport harvest fisheries. Throughout the summer, biologists keep track of the numbers of returning salmon. Careful monitoring is essential, to guarantee that healthy salmon populations are maintained. Within the rivers, creeks, and lakes along the Nabesna Road, there are other fish to be discovered, including grayling, Dolly Varden, and burbot. If you’d like to fish along the Nabesna Road, pick up a copy of the current fishing regulations at the Slana Ranger Station. While you’re there, a park ranger can tell you where to obtain an Alaska State fishing license, which is required for all anglers age 16 or older, or about other resources within the world-famous Copper River basin! (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 2. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 3 during your drive between 4-Mile Road Junction and the Park/Preserve Sign at Mile 5.6.
Track 3: 4-Mile Road Junction to the Park/Preserve Sign at Mile 5.6 (Music starts and fades out) Did you know that you could file a homesteading claim in Alaska as recently as 1986? 4-Mile Road leads into Slana Settlement, which was home to one of the last opportunities for homesteading federal land in the United States. In 1983, the Bureau of Land Management opened over 10,000 acres of land to homesteading, where people could claim the land they staked for $2.50 an acre. In order to keep the land, homesteaders had to meet certain requirements, such as occupancy and improving the land. About 800 claims were filed, but more than half were soon abandoned. Harsh, long, frigid Alaskan winters took their toll. Many people tried to live in hastily built cabins and tents, with temperatures dipping down to negative 60 degrees F. Then came the harsh realization that jobs were scarce and the land was not suitable for farming. Only about 100 claims were eventually patented, and today about 50 residents live in the settlement year-round. The Homesteading Act no longer exists in the United States, including Alaska. However, the idea is so popular that many people still think that they can file homesteading claims here. It is such a popular question that the Alaska Department of Natural Resources lists it in their “Frequently Asked Questions” page. Alaska continues to draw adventuresome people from all over the world, like the pioneers before them, hoping for a new beginning, and hoping to find land to explore and enjoy. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 3. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 4 during your drive between the Park/Preserve Sign at Mile 5.6 and Copper Lake Trailhead.
Track 4: Park/Preserve Sign at Mile 5.6 to Copper Lake Trailhead (Music starts and fades out) Just past mile marker 5, you’ll see a sign indicating that both sides of the road are now park lands. While driving the scenic Nabesna Road, you’ll be within the boundaries of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, but occasionally you’ll be passing through private, state, or native-owned land. When Wrangell-St. Elias was established in 1980, there were already people living in this area. So how was it possible to establish a 13-million acre national park here? The Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, also known as ANILCA, was passed in 1980, and created this park as well as other national parks, monuments, and forests in Alaska. This landmark legislation protects ecosystems and wilderness while protecting the rights of private land owners. ANILCA also provides opportunities for Native and non-Native rural residents of Alaska to pursue and sustain traditional ways of life. So what does this mean? With the passage of this law, a new vision of parks and conservation was established where people were viewed not as separate from nature but rather a part of it. This means that protection is not exclusively for natural and cultural resources - it also extends to people, their lifestyles, and their associations with the land. The north side of the road, on your left, is “National Preserve” and the south side of the road, on your right, is “National Park”. What’s the difference? The primary difference between lands designated as park versus preserve has to do with hunting regulations. Within the National Preserve only, sport hunting is allowed. Within both the National Park and the National Preserve, subsistence hunting is allowed. Subsistence is the customary and traditional use of wild, renewable resources by local rural Alaska residents, for personal or family consumption. A simple way to put it? Subsistence is local people living off the land. Subsistence is an important way of life in Alaska. Many rural Alaskans live off the land, relying on fish, animals, and other wild resources. Nowhere else in the United States is there such a heavy reliance upon wild foods. For many Alaskans, subsistence is more than just economics. It is about who they are and a way of life. (Music & Sounds) Alaska Natives have used these resources for food, shelter, clothing, transportation, handicrafts, and trade for thousands of years. There are four distinct Alaska Native groups with ties to the lands of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. Historically, the Ahtna and Upper Tanana Athabascans resided in the interior of the park. The Eyak and the Tlingit lived in villages on the coast of Alaska. No one knows for sure when humans first reached the Copper River Basin of Interior Alaska, but by 8,000 years ago, caribou hunters began visiting Tangle Lakes, located fifty miles northwest of the park boundary. As glacial ice retreated, humans eventually entered the Wrangell Mountains. Archaeological evidence has established a record of continuous human presence in the middle Copper Basin for the past 1,000 years, although it was probably occupied much earlier. Some believe that the area was originally settled by the Eyak. The Ahtna, however, replaced them long ago. Historically, the Ahtna population in the Copper Basin was small and scattered because game was never plentiful enough to support large groups. The Ahtna traveled the river corridors, foothills, and passes of what we currently refer to as the Wrangell Mountains for thousands of years prior to European arrival in the area. They lived in semi-permanent camps, leaving for weeks at a time to hunt and to gather berries, birch wood, and other resources. Trade routes with other native peoples were well established. Copper, found near the present-day town of McCarthy, was used for tools and for trade with other native groups. Most villages contained twenty to thirty members of a family clan and were situated near a major river. Today the Ahtna, Upper Tanana, Eyak and Tlingit live in or near many of the same villages they did historically. There are thousands of acres of land, within the boundaries of the park, which is owned by native people or native corporations. Local and rural native communities continue to engage in subsistence activities such as hunting, fishing, and berry harvesting. Native people continue to pass on traditional ways of life to future generations while staying closely tied to their home. (Music & Sounds) It’s a fairly long stretch of road between Mile Marker 5.6 and the Copper Lake Trailhead, so we encourage you to stop along the way and enjoy the views. As you approach the Copper Lake Trailhead, keep in mind that this trail is about 18 miles long, but is only suitable to hiking for the first 2 miles. There is a picnic table at the trailhead, so this would be a nice place to stop for a snack! As always, please dispose of your trash appropriately. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 4. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 5 during your drive between Copper Lake Trailhead and Dead Dog Hill.
Track 5: Copper Lake Trailhead to Dead Dog Hill (Music starts and fades out) After stopping for a snack at the Copper Lake Trailhead, get ready for a panoramic treat! Up ahead you will be rewarded with sweeping views of the Wrangell Mountains. As you approach these views, can you imagine what it might have been like to first explore this area? The first official American exploration and some of the first recorded geographic observations of the western Wrangell Mountains were made by Lt. Henry T. Allen of the U.S. Army in 1885. In March of that year, Allen and his companions landed at the mouth of the Copper River and began one of the most remarkable journeys in the history of Alaskan exploration. Mapping as they went, the party ascended the Copper River, crossed the Alaska Range through Suslota Pass, and then proceeded down the Tetlin, Tanana, Koyukuk, and Yukon Rivers to end up at the Bering Sea in Western Alaska. When they were not on homemade rafts on a river, they walked the entire distance of over 1500 miles! Before going north over the Alaska Range, Allen explored the upper Copper River Basin, the Chitina River Valley, and the western Wrangell Mountains in what is now Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve. During his summer in the area, Lt. Allen measured the heights and assigned names to many of the high Wrangell peaks. Although many of these peaks already had local Ahtna names, today we know most of them, including Mount Drum and Mount Sanford, by the names given by Lt. Allen. (Music & Sounds) While catching the first glimpses of the Wrangell Mountains, you’ll be seeing the source of the mighty Copper River. If you were to fly over the mountains and land in the great ice fields of the Wrangells, you would find yourself on top of the Copper Glacier. The meltwater of this glacier gives rise to the Copper River, which flows off the Wrangell Mountains, twisting and turning through epic landscapes, and eventually reaching the Gulf of Alaska. Along much of its length, the Copper River marks the western boundary of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, giving life to land, people, and wildlife throughout its watershed. (Music & Sounds) As you continue driving this stretch of the road, gaze to the south, or the right side of the road, and you’ll be rewarded with fantastic views of the Wrangell Mountains. The rocks of the Wrangell Mountains hold stories that tell the geological history of this landscape. This mountain range is made up of thousands of lava flows that erupted from large volcanoes during the last 26 million years. Much of the geological evidence lies undiscovered, buried under thick ice fields or blankets of volcanic ash. Rivers and glaciers have both exposed and carried away clues to the region's ancient history. The rocks, ash, and ancient mud flows contain a myriad of colors, patterns, shapes, and layers that beg a curious onlooker to take a closer look. The Wrangell peaks are among the highest mountains in North America and some of the largest, by volume, in the world. Mount Sanford, which is the looming giant with the glaciated, conical summit to the southwest, holds about 250 cubic miles of lava. That is an impressive figure when you compare it to Mt. St. Helens, in Washington, which holds about 8 cubic miles of lava, and Mt Rainier, also in Washington, which holds about 45 cubic miles of lava. Many of the volcanoes within the Wrangell Mountains are shield volcanoes, which generally produce large volumes of fluid, less-viscous lava that flows easily into gentle slopes. Because the lava flows more easily, shield volcanoes tend to have less violent eruptions. Mt. Sanford is one of the tallest mountains in the United States with an elevation of 16,237 feet. This is a young volcano, which began to form approximately 900,000 years ago. The initial eruptive activity initiated from at least 3 volcanic centers, which built up layers of lava and ash flows. Eventually the volcanic activity shifted to one central vent, building up more layers into the massive structure that we see today. Mt. Sanford certainly is a very large mountain of rugged landscapes! On the spectacular south face of the volcano, the mountain rises 8000 feet in one mile. That is one of the steepest areas of relief in North America. To the left of Mt. Sanford, can you see the rounded icy dome of Mount Wrangell? Mt. Wrangell, with a summit of 14,163 feet, is a good example of a shield volcano and is exciting because it is the park’s only active volcano. On clear, steady days, you might see steam plumes rising from the summit! If you look closely at Mt. Wrangell and compare it to other peaks in the Wrangell Mountains, you’ll see that it clearly displays the obvious gentle slopes of a shield volcano. Why don’t any of the other shield volcanoes look like this? At about 600,000 years old, Mt. Wrangell is the youngest volcano in this part of the mountain range and has not been exposed to erosion for as long as the other volcanoes. Many of the other superstructures have been scraped away by glaciers, water, wind, and other forces of erosion. As you drive, watch for other smaller peaks within the Wrangell Mountains. Some of these peaks are evidence of once massive shield volcanoes, but their summits have been eroded away and sculpted by the forces of time. In a short while you will be approaching a couple of rest areas. Just past mile 16 there is a picnic table at Kettle Lake, and a little further on is Dead Dog Hill rest area. You might consider stopping at these rest areas, drinking in the scenery, and getting a good look at the magnificent Wrangell Mountains. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 5. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 6 during your drive between Dead Dog Hill and Caribou Creek Trailhead.
Track 6: Dead Dog Hill to Caribou Creek Trailhead (Music starts and fades out) As you drive away from this rest area, look closely at the wetlands and the boreal forest that surrounds you, as you may catch a glimpse of a moose—especially around the water. Moose are experts at camouflage, so while you’re searching you may find signs of other wildlife. This stretch of the Nabesna Road can be an excellent area to watch for migrating birds. With thousands of acres of boreal spruce forest, muskegs, lakes, rivers, alder and willow thickets, alpine meadows, and icefields, Wrangell-St. Elias provides rich habitat for birds. In fact, more than 230 species of birds make this place their home throughout the year. Long summer days, wide open spaces, and abundant food sources lure long-distance migrants through the Copper River basin each spring, and many of these birds stay to nest. Trumpeter swans and a myriad of other waterfowl begin arriving in late April, even before the ice and snow melts. By early May, forests are alive with birdsong as warblers and thrushes arrive and quickly establish nesting territories. By August, many birds are already beginning their long journey back to southern wintering grounds. As days shorten and the frigid winter of the Alaskan interior arrives, only the hardiest species, like chickadees and pine grosbeaks, remain. (Music & Sounds) Have you considered taking a hike today? One option is the Caribou Creek Trail, featuring spectacular scenery, solitude, and wildlife. If you decide to hike, be sure to take snacks, sunscreen, bugspray, and plenty of water. Be aware of unpredictable weather and trail conditions, and please pack out all of your trash. Since there may be bears in the area, be sure to make some noise or you might consider carrying bear spray if you have it. Even though the Caribou Creek trailhead is at mile 19.2, parking is available a short distance back at mile 18.9. You should be approaching this parking area soon! Have fun and enjoy the scenery! (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 6. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 7 during your drive between Caribou Creek Trailhead and Rock Lake Rest Area.
Track 7: Caribou Creek Trailhead to Rock Lake Rest Area (Music starts and fades out) Whether you’re hiking a trail or taking a scenic drive, take a moment to look closely at your surroundings as this area can be rich in wildflowers including fireweed, blue bells, prickly rose, and Alaska cottongrass. Because Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve is so large, and it has a varied climate and geology, there is a high variety of plant communities here. In fact, the diversity of plants in Wrangell-St Elias is unsurpassed by any other park unit in Alaska! Within the park, there are over 1200 known plant species, with many of them considered rare by the National Park Service. So take care where you step, and watch for some hidden gems that may be right beneath your feet! (Music & Sounds) Speaking of plants, have you taken a good look at the forest around you? It's hard to find a single image that describes Alaska's boreal forest. It's a land of multiple, sometimes contrasting scenes: A stand of slender black spruce trees, scattered across a landscape of lush moss and lichen… A grove of aspen, glowing yellow on the hillside… A moonlit willow thicket, laced with animal footprints through the snow… The boreal forest, also called "taiga", is often portrayed as a monotonous blanket of spindly evergreens, covering the hills and valleys of the far north. In reality, it's a complex mosaic of forest types-from sunny aspen groves to spruce bogs-intermingled with meadows, marshes, lakes, and rivers, and supporting a wide variety of animals. Black spruce and white spruce are the most common conifers in this huge ecosystem, accompanied by quaking aspen, paper birch, and balsam poplar. Common shrubs include willow, alder, cranberry, rose, and blueberry. What shapes this ecosystem? Cold weather, long winters, permafrost, and forest fires all contribute to the tapestry of Alaska's boreal forest. Visitors often wonder why the trees in the boreal forest look strange. Some trees look weak and spindly. Others are tall and straight. The absence and presence of permafrost profoundly influences tree growth in the boreal forest. Permafrost, or permanently frozen ground, develops when soil remains frozen for two or more years. Permafrost may occur one to ten feet below the surface and be 100 to 200 feet thick! During the summer, some soil thawing occurs in the upper layers of the ground. The presence and depth of this thawing affects the size and survival rate of trees and other plants. Where permafrost is deep or not present at all, the soils are well drained, warmer, and richer in nutrients. Trees that grow here tend to be a rapidly growing mixed-species forest of white spruce, birch, poplar, and quaking aspen, and these trees usually grow tall and straight. Where the ground does not thaw and permafrost is near the surface, the soils are cold, saturated with surface water that cannot drain, and are lower in nutrients. The primary trees that survive in these conditions are black spruce, and they are slow growing and stunted. As a result, those trees often look weak and spindly. As you travel throughout Alaska, look at the forest around you and see if you can find areas where permafrost might be present and other areas without permafrost. (Music & Sounds) You’re about to pull in to the Rock Lake Rest Area, which contains a vault toilet, picnic table, and trash bin for your convenience. Plus there are great views! How could you ask for anything more? But there is more. How about the chance to stay overnight in a rustic cabin, within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve? There is a public-use cabin nearby called the Viking Lodge. The Viking Lodge was built in the early 1970s by a homesteader of Danish descent. The rustic cabin has 2 bunks, a small kitchen table and chairs, a barrel wood stove, and a large loft area. The cabin was refurbished for public use by the National Park Service, and is in good condition with a new outhouse. The Viking Lodge is about a 10-minute walk from this rest area. In order to use the Viking Lodge, you must have a reservation, which can be made up to six months in advance. Please talk to a ranger at the Slana Ranger Station to inquire about making reservations for this popular public use cabin. We hope you can come back to enjoy it! (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 7. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 8 during your drive between Rock Lake Rest Area and the Camping Area at Twin Lakes.
Track 8: Rock Lake Rest Area to the Camping Area at Twin Lakes (Music starts and fades out) Along with the Viking Lodge, there are several other public-use cabins located within Wrangell-St. Elias. Most of these cabins are old mining or hunting cabins that have been restored by the National Park Service. Most are located in remote locations, accessible only by aircraft, and require hikers or campers to make appropriate backcountry trip plans. These cabins are first come, first served, and if you’d like to learn more about them, please ask a park ranger. Imagine coming to the park to stay in one of these public-use cabins. You’re all settled in and relaxing on the porch, listening to the surrounding sounds of the Alaskan wilderness. Perhaps you’ll hear a Great Horned Owl, or the wind softly whistling through the black spruce trees. Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to see a cow moose emerge from a distant willow thicket with her young calf by her side. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve is part of a vast area of unspoiled wild lands. Nearly 10 million acres, or 15,000 square miles, of Wrangell-St. Elias are designated and managed as wilderness - the largest in the U.S. National Park system. This wilderness area is larger than some states and small countries, and is home to a wide array of wildlife and a complex intact ecosystem. Wilderness areas preserve the primeval character and pristine nature of wild spaces. They offer outstanding opportunities for solitude, recreation, and unconfined exploration. Many Alaskans depend on wilderness lands for their livelihood. Recognizing these special needs, the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act established provisions for wilderness areas that are different than those found outside of Alaska. The law permits people to use airplanes, snow machines, and motorboats to access land for subsistence activities such as hunting and fishing, as part of the Alaskan wilderness experience. Perhaps National Geographic photographer George F. Mobley described it best when he said: Long before recorded history, the human experience was conceived in and born of wilderness. In the deepest recesses of our hearts resonates a longing to reach out and once again grasp those primal areas. It is reassuring to know that the experience is available in those places of truly majestic wilderness - places like Wrangell-St. Elias." (Music & Sounds) When you reach the Camping Area at Twin Lakes, keep in mind that this is a great place to spend an hour…or to spend the night! Within this camping area there are several picnic tables, vault toilets, fire rings, and campsites that provide a nice spot for camping. While picnicking, camping, or enjoying other recreational activities, please remember to practice “Leave No Trace” principles. These include packing out your trash, respecting wildlife, being considerate of other visitors, leaving what you find, and minimizing your impact on the natural world. However long you decide to stay, please be aware that just past Twin Lakes, the Nabesna Road becomes increasingly rough. Up ahead, you will cross several creeks. High water levels are sometimes produced by rain or hot weather that accelerates melting snow upstream. Because these creeks change course frequently and carry sediment and debris, it is not practical to install a bridge or culverts...so the streams must be forded. Although the stream beds usually provide a fairly solid gravel footing, be careful to avoid sandy or muddy areas. During high water, a 4-wheel drive is highly recommended. At times, the creek crossings may be too risky for any vehicle to safely pass. If you have concerns about your vehicle, consider this: the Camping Area at Twin Lakes is more than half way down the Nabesna Road. If this is your turnaround point, you’ve already seen some spectacular scenery and have experienced an excellent overview of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve! (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 8. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 9 during your drive between the Camping Area at Twin Lakes and Lost Creek Trailhead.
Track 9: The Camping Area at Twin Lakes to Lost Creek Trailhead (Music starts and fades out) In the next couple of miles, you will be crossing 3 creeks: Trail Creek, Lost Creek, and Boyden Creek. A lot of sediment and debris coming down these creeks are coming from glacial moraines, consisting of ancient gravel deposits. These moraines were formed during the Wisconsin Glaciation, which was the last great ice age. This glaciation reached its maximum advance about 18,000 years ago when ice and snow covered much of Alaska, almost all of Canada, and extended well into the northern United States. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve holds the nation’s largest glacial system. Glaciers cover over 25 percent, or approximately 5,000 square miles, of the park. The Nabesna Glacier, which is over 75 miles long, is the world’s longest interior valley glacier! Glaciers are the headwaters for many of the river systems that flow throughout the park. They are heavy with glacier silt and sediment, causing them to braid as one channel begins to fill with sediment, forcing the water to switch to a new channel. Glaciers themselves are often referred to as rivers of ice. They flow down mountain valleys and, in the case of tidewater glaciers, into the sea. We don't generally expect to see movement or experience the results of this movement, but glaciers, like other geologic forces, are dynamic. As you travel the Nabesna Road, imagine the forces and processes of change that created the beautiful scenery and then remember that those same forces continue their work today. This place looks different now than it did hundreds of years ago or even six months ago...what will it look like when you next visit? (Music & Sounds) There are two trail options coming up, both named after the creek that they follow. The Lost Creek Trail, which is the second trailhead, can be a good option for someone who wants to plan a short backpacking trip. The Lost Creek trailhead is located on the on the left, or north side of the road, a short distance after you drive across Lost Creek. This trail leads hikers out of the creek drainage into the ridges above, where there are camping spots surrounded by spectacular views. Anytime you decide to take a trip into the backcountry, you’ll need to do some extensive trip planning. Be sure to invest in a map, food and water, proper equipment including camping gear and food storage, and an ample supply of good sense! We also advise becoming familiar with the Leave No Trace principles. Stop at the Slana Ranger Station to start planning your trip up Lost Creek, or to inquire into other backcountry trips. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 9. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 10 during your drive between Lost Creek Trailhead and Jack Creek Rest Area.
Track 10: Lost Creek Trailhead to Jack Creek Rest Area (Music starts and fades out) One thing that makes Alaska so special is that bears flourish here, and there is a chance that you may be lucky enough to see one. But even if you don't see a bear, odds are that you won’t be far from one, because Alaska is bear country! Both Black and Grizzly bears are found throughout Wrangell-St. Elias. The awe-inspiring Grizzly bear is a mighty predator, but there are several misconceptions about this animal. One common question is: “Are Grizzly bears the same as Brown bears?” Yes! They are the same species but they are often differentiated by their location. People tend to refer to Brown bears as living in the coastal areas of Alaska, while they refer to Grizzly bears as living in the interior of Alaska. So why are they called Grizzly bears? These bears are primarily yellowish-brown in color. But some have white-tipped hairs, giving them a grizzled appearance, thus giving them the name Grizzly bear. Grizzly bears are large predators at the top of the food chain, but did you know that most of their diet consists of grasses, roots, berries, nuts, insects, salmon, and ground squirrels? Occasionally they will prey on large mammals like moose, caribou, or Dall sheep. Even though Grizzly bears are enormous (they can weigh up to 1000 pounds), they are deceptively capable of running very fast. They’ve been clocked at 40 miles per hour! Another misconception is that you can distinguish a Grizzly bear from a Black bear by their color. A Grizzly bear can be brown, yellowish-brown, black or even blond. Black bears are usually black, but occasionally they can be brown or cinnamon. Since you can’t use color as a defining factor, the best way to identify a bear is by its shape. Grizzly bears are usually much larger than Black bears, and they have a prominent shoulder hump, smaller ears, and longer, straighter claws. Grizzly bears need those long claws for digging up roots and grasses, and those long claws are not very useful for climbing trees. In fact, you’ll probably never see an adult Grizzly bear perched up in a tree! (Music & Sounds) If you decide to go for a hike in bear country, be sure to make your presence known. Bears can be dangerous to humans if they are surprised or if a person accidentally gets between a mother and her cub. Grizzly bears can conceal themselves remarkably well in the low brush along the hill sides. Especially if they’re eating berries! So if you’re hiking through vegetation or in terrain where it’s hard to see, make noise and if possible, travel with a group. Basic bear safety rules include: never approach a bear, observe them from a safe distance, give them plenty of room, avoid surprising bears, do not run from bears, and secure food and garbage so bears cannot get it. If you decide to camp in bear country, be sure to use a bear-resistant food container, as proper food storage is required in the park. Some people prefer to hike with bear spray as a deterrent against possible attacks from an aggressive bear. Most people who see a bear in the wild consider it the highlight of their trip. The presence of these majestic creatures is a reminder that we are in the midst of true wilderness. (Music & Sounds) The Jack Creek Rest Area, which you’re approaching, is a quiet place to spend the night, complete with camp sites, picnic tables, a vault toilet, and trash cans. This stretch of road receives less traffic and is often a place to camp in solitude. There are numerous game trails to follow up and down stream as well as beaver ponds nearby. Just imagine enjoying a quiet evening, with family and friends, fishing for grayling in Jack Creek. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 10. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 11 during your drive between Jack Creek Rest Area and Skookum Volcano Trailhead.
Track 11: Jack Creek Rest Area to Skookum Volcano Trailhead (Music starts and fades out) As you drive away from the Jack Creek Rest Area, be sure to look up at the rocky ridges and mountainsides for your chance to spot Dall sheep. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve contains one of the largest concentrations of Dall sheep in North America – some 15,000 sheep in more than three million acres of habitat. These bright, white sheep have curling horns, and inhabit high alpine ridges, meadows, and extremely rugged terrain. Dall sheep use these areas for feeding, resting, and avoiding predators. Dall sheep spend their lives on these ridges, and when they sense danger they move to cliffs and crags to escape predators. The females give birth to their young on these slopes and the lambs are sure-footed just hours after being born! Although Dall sheep usually stay at higher elevations, in the Jack Creek area they are known to descend to springs and mineral licks and to cross the road. Careful observers can often spot small groups on the mountainsides over the next few miles. Watch for bright, white objects on the mountainsides, but don’t mistake them for patches of snow! (Music & Sounds) You’re about to reach the Skookum Volcano Trailhead. This trail leads through an extinct, deeply eroded volcanic system and provides an opportunity to examine volcanic geology close-up. This route is 2.5 miles one-way, reaching a beautiful pass at 5,800 feet. The total elevation gain is 2800 feet, making this trail moderately difficult. Hikers will enjoy opportunities for wildlife viewing, spectacular scenery, alpine plants, and volcanic geology. Over the course of millions of years, erosion has exposed dramatic examples of rhyolite and dacite domes, andesite lava flows, vents, and many erosion-resistant dikes. If you choose to take this hike, as always bring along snacks, water, sunscreen, and bugspray. Enjoy your hike! (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 11. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 12 during your drive between Skookum Volcano Trailhead and Reeve’s Field.
Track 12: Skookum Volcano Trailhead to Reeve’s Field (Music starts and fades out) The jagged peaks south of the road are dominated by volcanic rocks ejected from the Skookum Creek Volcano. Volcanic ash and hot gasses formed a fiery cloud which flowed down the flanks of an ancient volcano, to produce the tan and light gray rocks that you see today. Several volcanic vents produced lava that flowed downslope and solidified to produce the more massive pinkish-tan rocks. Radioactive dating of these rocks by United States Geologic Survey investigators show that Skookum Creek Volcano was active between two and four million years ago. Look at all the deep canyons and steep slopes that surround you. These canyons and slopes show that erosion has been very effective in wearing down the land during the last two million years. (Music & Sounds) In a couple of miles, you will reach Reeve’s Field, where you’ll be rewarded with views of Devil’s Mountain to the east and the Nutzotin Mountains to the southeast. Reeve’s Field actually has some powerful historical and national significance! During 1941, trucks hauled equipment from Valdez to this rustic strip along the Nabesna River. Pilot Bob Reeve cut everything into pieces, loaded it into his Boeing Trimotor, flew it to Northway, about 40 miles away, and then had it re-built. This effort was organized to build the Northway Airport, a critical stopover in ferrying aircraft to the Soviet Union during WWII. By November, he had transported all the materials for a full-scale airport. It was good timing. One month later, the attack on Pearl Harbor gave Northway new relevance, and it became a critical element in the defense of Alaska. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 12. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 13 once you’ve reached Reeve’s Field.
Track 13: The End of the Road! (Music starts and fades out) Just ahead, the road will continue through private property. Please respect the owner’s privacy, and take care not to park on their property or airstrip without their permission. Approximately a quarter mile beyond this private property, there is a gravel parking area. If you’d like to explore further, this is the best place to park your car, as the road is not maintained beyond this point. The last stretch of the Nabesna Road makes for interesting hiking, and with the final miles comes the original reason for the road: the Nabesna Gold Mine. Carl Whitham staked the claims for this gold mine in 1925, which produced 73,000 tons of gold ore valued at $1,870,000 until it closed in 1947. Limited, small scale mineral extraction has occurred since that time, and today the Nabesna Mine is still privately owned and not open to the public. If you’d like to do a hike nearby, park your car at the parking area, walk about a third of a mile up the road, turn right onto a tree-canopied trail, and head towards the Rambler Mine. The trail is somewhat steep, but the effort rewards you with spectacular views of the Nabesna River Valley and the Mentasta and Nutzotin Mountains. Please be advised that it is not considered safe to enter the mine opening, tunnels, surrounding buildings, and other structures that are in a state of disrepair and that may be hazardous. (Music & Sounds) Now that you’ve made it down the Nabesna Road, you’ve caught a glimpse into the beauty of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve. But you certainly haven’t seen it all. This park encompasses over 13 million acres of natural beauty and historical wonders. There are other regions and districts to explore, and we hope you can spend more time discovering the rich interplay of wildlife, scenic beauty and culture that are brought together within Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve! (Music fades in and ends) Proceed to Track 14 if you’d like information about the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Visitor Center in Copper Center. If you’d like information about Chitina, the McCarthy Road, and Kennecott Mill Town, skip to Track 15. Or if you’d like to find out about Conservation and Research Efforts that are happening in the park, skip to Track 16.
Track 14: Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Visitor Center , in Copper Center (Music starts and fades out) The Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Visitor Center is located along the Richardson Highway , also known as Hwy 4, at mile 106.8, near historic Copper Center, Alaska. The visitor center is about 200 miles east of Anchorage, 15 miles south of Glennallen, and 105 miles north of Valdez. Services available in Copper Center include a post office, lodging, gas station, food store, tire repair, and telephones. The Visitor Center Complex provides information about the entire park. View the park movie in the theater, enjoy the exhibits, gaze at the Wrangell Mountains from the bluff overlook, and become oriented with the large 3-D interactive map display. While you’re there, visit the Ahtna Cultural Center where you can learn about Ahtna culture through exhibits, artifacts, and personal stories. Take a look through the Alaska Geographic Bookstore for a wide selection of books, maps, and films about Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve. As the park’s official nonprofit partner and bookstore, Alaska Geographic offers an extensive collection of titles on the park’s natural and cultural heritage, provides financial support for interpretive programs and other educational offerings, and works to connect visitors with Alaska’s magnificent wildlands. Park rangers are available to answer questions, and they provide daily interpretive talks and walks during the summer months. While at the Visitor Center campus, why not take a walk on the Boreal Forest Trail? This is an easy, level, half-mile trail that allows visitors to view volcanic peaks and the Copper River valley, while hiking through the boreal forest. The visitor center is open year round. During the winter, the visitor center is closed on weekends and on federal holidays. We hope to see you soon! (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 14. For information about Chitina, the McCarthy Road, and Kennecott Mill Town, proceed to Track 15. Or for information about Conservation and Research Efforts in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, skip to Track 16.
Track 15: Chitina, the McCarthy Road, and Kennecott Mill Town (Music starts and fades out) There are only two roads that access Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve: the Nabesna Road, which you’ve already done, and the McCarthy Road. The McCarthy Road is a gravel road, located to the south, at the end of the paved Edgerton Highway, also known as Hwy 10. The town of Chitina is located at the end of the Edgerton Highway and at the start of the McCarthy Road. The Chitina Ranger Station is a good place to obtain the latest information from a park ranger, and to view photos that depict early life in Chitina. Trains, stagecoaches, dog sleds, and steamboats all passed through Chitina on their way to the mining and commerce centers of Alaska during Chitina's boom years, 1910-1938. The heyday of Chitina was directly tied to the operation of the Kennecott mines and the Copper River and Northwestern Railway. The railroad was built to haul copper ore from the Kennecott mines to Cordova, and Chitina provided an intermediate stop for the trains and their passengers. The ranger station is typically open from late May to early September. Services available in Chitina include a post office, gas station, food store, tire repair, café, and payphones. (Music & Sounds) Driving the McCarthy Road is an Alaskan adventure! Although maintained by the State of Alaska, the gravel surface makes for slow travel, and this 60-mile road usually takes two hours one way. Other hazards can make it even longer: heavy rain can make the road muddy and slippery, sharp rocks can cause flat tires, and narrow bridges make maneuvering large vehicles difficult. In fact, large vehicles are not recommended. Under normal summer conditions, most two-wheel drive vehicles can make the trip, but be sure to carry at least one spare tire and an adequate jack. There is private land that adjoins many parts of the McCarthy Road, so please respect private property. Highlights along the McCarthy Road include the Kuskulana River Bridge, the Gilahina Trestle, and the Crystalline Hills Trail. For more information about these and other highlights, pick up a copy of the McCarthy Road Guide. At the end of the McCarthy road, all visitors must park their vehicles and use a foot bridge to cross the Kennicott River. Once across the bridge, you may continue on foot or choose to take a shuttle into the town of McCarthy or up to the Kennecott Mill Town. Limited services in McCarthy and Kennecott include lodging, cafes, mini-mart food store, and recreational outfitters. (Music & Sounds) One of the premier sites of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve is the historic Kennecott Mill town and mines. Kennecott is located 5 miles from the town of McCarthy but don’t worry, there is a regular shuttle service that can bring you there. The Kennecott Mill town and mine are extraordinary relics from America's past. The historic buildings are set against the magnificent landscape of glaciers and mountains to present a truly astounding vista. The impressive structures and artifacts represent an ambitious time of exploration, discovery, and technological innovation. They tell stories of westward expansion, World War I politics and economy, the lives of men, women, and children who lived there, and the rise of a multinational corporation. Each link in the historical chain connects to another until we realize that this remote, Alaska mining venture was intricately connected to the world around it. Many of the buildings in Kennecott have been abandoned for over sixty years. Some are in need of immediate stabilization to keep them standing, while some have deteriorated beyond saving. The National Park Service, along with the local community, has engaged in an ongoing effort to identify buildings that will be stabilized or rehabilitated, and those that will not receive any attention at all. The goal is to protect the historic integrity of the mill town so that future generations will be able to explore Kennecott. A few buildings will be rehabilitated for modern use. The Recreation Hall was completed in 2004 and it is used for educational programs and community events. Several other buildings are currently receiving repairs to roofs, foundations, and walls. Throughout the mill town you will observe lots of activity during the summer. The stabilization work in Kennecott is expected to take many years. Through the hard work of many dedicated individuals, a unique piece of American history will be preserved. (Music & Sounds) Once you reach Kennecott, be sure to visit the Kennecott Visitor Center, housed within the historic general store and post office. While you’re there, you can talk to a park ranger, pick up maps and brochures, join a ranger for interpretive walks or talks, plan your backcountry wilderness excursion, or shop in the Alaska Geographic bookstore. There are several trails that originate from Kennecott, and rangers are available to recommend day hikes and answer any other questions that you may have. The visitor center is typically open late May through early September. (Music fades in and ends) This concludes Track 15. For information about Conservation and Research Efforts in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, proceed to Track 16.
Track 16: Conservation and Research Efforts in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve (Music starts and fades out) From history, culture and social science to fisheries, climate change to pollution, and glaciers to geology, Wrangell-St. Elias is a living laboratory where scientists conduct research. The research done within the park's boundaries reflect the diversity of resources found here. There is a wide range of research and monitoring that has been conducted, or is currently being done on wildlife in the park. There are two herds of caribou that can be found within the northern portion of the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve: the Chisana Caribou Herd and the Mentasta Herd. The Mentasta Caribou Herd calves along the northern slopes of Mt. Drum and Mt. Sanford and can be found wintering north of the park boundary. The Chisana Caribou Herd calves between the upper reaches of the Chisana and White Rivers and winters mainly in the Yukon Territory of Canada. Caribou are considered to be a critical species in Alaska’s northern ecosystem, and they have been an important source of food for humans for thousands of years. Because of their importance, both the Chisana and Mentasta Caribou Herds continue to be monitored by the park. The moose is another animal that is monitored at Wrangell-St. Elias. As soon as there is adequate snow cover, which is usually in late October, surveys of this large mammal are conducted from the air. During these surveys, which occur once every three years, biologists fly over randomly selected units in the interior portions of the park. Any moose seen from the air are counted, and then the moose population is estimated for those areas of the park. Moose populations have the potential to respond dramatically to changes in resource conditions and hunting pressure, so it’s important for biologists to continue this monitoring. Their data can also provide insight into other issues such as how changes in plant communities or predator populations can influence moose populations. (Music & Sounds) There has been substantial and ongoing research, with national significance, which involves studying climate change in Alaska’s national parks. Scientists with the National Park Service recognize that monitoring the climate is critical to understanding the condition of park ecosystems. They also recognize that parks need to work together to achieve needed results. In Alaska, several climate stations have been strategically placed in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Denali National Park, and Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve. These climate stations provide information on climate patterns and extreme events, such as floods, droughts, and severe temperatures. In addition, the climate stations provide real-time weather data which is of immediate use to parks. Since these climate stations have been installed, Park Service scientists are gathering information about the different environments, and have been tracking changes and using data to answer questions and to create climate change models. Additional research has been conducted by the Wilderness Society and the University of Alaska. Their studies show that many areas in Alaska are already showing signs of climate change, and show that Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve is expected to become warmer and drier over the next century. Seasonal changes in climate will have profound impacts on the condition and health of wildlife habitat, lead to increased fire risk, and contribute to the likelihood of wetlands, streams, and lakes drying. Climate change models and other data help park managers anticipate changes in coming decades. By doing consistent monitoring, scientists can provide accurate information to park managers who, in turn, can make optimal decisions for the management of national parks. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve holds icefields, high-country areas cloaked with snow year-round, and the nation’s largest system of glaciers. In fact over 25 percent, or approximately 5,000 square miles, of the park is covered with ice. Near the coast, the Malaspina Glacier is North America's largest piedmont glacier, which is a type of glacier that is formed at the base of a mountain rather than enclosed by a valley. Covering an area of 1500 square miles, the Malaspina Glacier is so large that it can only be seen entirely from the air. If warmer winters and longer, more intense melting seasons continue, we may no longer be able to claim these amazing resources. Ultimately the issue of climate change is larger than any one national park—even the largest in the system. However, if we as individuals take action to reduce our contribution to climate change, we will have positive benefits for our parks and their resources. By dealing with the issue of climate change, we will be moving towards a way of life that is in harmony with the natural processes that operate on our planet. (Music fades in and ends)
McCarthy Road Audio Tour
McCarthy Road Audio Tour
Learn about the history, geology and wildlife as you explore the McCarthy Road, one of two unpaved roads which enter into the interior of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve.
Welcome to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, America’s largest national park! We hope you’re excited to embark upon this once in a lifetime journey. The rough and challenging McCarthy Road winds through the park and into the heart of this rugged Alaskan terrain. Remoteness requires a little planning, so we hope you have all the essentials: extra food & water, a road guide & map, a park newspaper, binoculars, proper outdoor gear & clothing, a spare tire & adequate jack, and a strong sense of adventure! The McCarthy Road provides for breathtaking mountain vistas, the chance to see wildlife and an opportunity to explore the vast landscape. You can also learn the surprising tale of a railway built solely to serve the bustling Kennecott Copper Mines.
The McCarthy Road stretches for 59 scenic miles from the famous Copper River to the historic towns of McCarthy and Kennecott. The roadway originated as a railway, completed in 1911, to transport copper ore from the remote Kennecott Copper Mines to a coastal port for shipping. When large scale operations ended in 1938, most of the rails were salvaged for scrap iron, but were subsequently lost to a tsunami following the 1964 Good Friday Earthquake. The remaining rails were pushed aside along the road. In 1971 a new bridge was constructed over the Copper River, the first large river you cross just one mile west of the town of Chitina. The rail bed was then covered with gravel, creating what we now call the McCarthy Road. Narrow and winding, the road still reflects its railway origins. In places, remnants of railroad ties may come to the surface along with the occasional spike, creating unexpected hazards. Although traffic and weather often result in ruts and bumpy surfaces, under normal summer conditions most passenger vehicles can make the trip. Please allow faster vehicles to pass, by pulling over and using turnouts. Due to the narrow road and limited visibility, we suggest extreme caution for large RV’s on the McCarthy Road. Remember the speed limit is 35 mph and most times you’ll need to go slower due to changing and hazardous conditions. Also, the McCarthy Road can have soft shoulders and may be slick in rainy conditions, so travel with care. In dry conditions, the road can be extremely dusty. If you’re passing on-coming traffic, slow down so that both vehicles are able to see the edge of the road as you’re passing. Increase your following distance to stay safe in these dusty conditions. This will make for a more enjoyable ride for all travelers on the road. Driving the entire length of the McCarthy Road can take about 2 to 3 hours one-way.
Some other important facts to note about this road: At several points along the way, you’ll notice signs showing private land interspersed among the national park and national preserve lands, so please respect private property. Cell phone coverage varies by carrier, but is generally good with some dead zones. Other carriers may have no coverage at all. There are several waysides and rest areas located along the road, with vault toilets and picnic tables, but no running water. Last, but not least, there are no fuel stations along the McCarthy Road, but fuel may be seasonally available in McCarthy, at the end of the road. Tire repair service may be seasonally available in McCarthy and Chitina. There are no other services along the road, so please plan accordingly.
While listening to this audio tour, you can follow along with the McCarthy Road Guide in the park newspaper. Take note of your location on the map. Watch for the mile markers along the road; they are white wooden posts with green numbering. Having the Road Guide and watching for the mile markers will help you recognize when to start the tracks of this audiotour. They begin in the town of Chitina, just after the Rest Area.
This is a journey meant to be soaked in and taken slowly. Enjoy the views around you. Take time to capture photos along the way. Take time to get out of your vehicle, stretch, and breathe it all in. Don’t get too caught up in getting there, enjoy the road ahead.
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By now you’ve probably passed through the town of Chitina, it was the tiny town just before the start of the McCarthy Road. You may have stopped at the historic Chitina Ranger Station to gather information for your trip. The Ranger Station is one block off the main road on the left side of the road. During the summer this ranger station can be busy; the area is a popular fishing destination and serves as a location to gather the most current information on road conditions. The town of Chitina, including the building that now houses the ranger station, sprang up in 1910 as the Copper River & Northwestern Railway was being developed. It was a major stop-over for miners and travelers to obtain goods and supplies as they traveled back and forth 196 miles from the coastal town of Cordova to the mountainous Kennecott Copper Mine and town of McCarthy. Some travelers used this stop to get off and travel further into the interior of Alaska to seek a new life and try their luck at gold mining. The original plan of the Copper River and Northwestern railway was to traverse in that same direction, towards Fairbanks, and therefore open up the Alaskan interior to easier transportation and exploration. The railway towards Kennecott was planned as only a smaller spur to the larger railway expanding into the Alaskan interior, an “All-America” route. This was not to be. A long history of political decisions made the building of the railway and the “All-America” route into the interior impossible.
The McCarthy Road officially begins when you drive through a narrow rock gap, referred to locally as the “railroad cut.” The cut was originally a railroad tunnel, which was later blasted open due to falling rock. Ahead of you lies the confluence of the Chitina and Copper Rivers. The Copper River makes up the western boundary of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve, as it flows almost 300 miles from its origins near the Copper Glacier in the northern area of the park to the Gulf of Alaska. You may see Alaska residents fishing from boats or on land using dipnets or fishwheels to catch world renowned “Copper River Reds” or Sockeye salmon.
(Sounds: Water running, fishing activities? Fishwheel sounds – could be like a water wheel/mill?)
As you cross the bridge that spans the Copper River, upstream you should see the 12,010 foot tall Mount Drum looming to the north, as well as the Kotsina River delta feeding into the Copper River. After the bridge, also on the north side of the road, is an easement. An easement is an area of land where visitors are granted the right to cross private property. Visitors are allowed to access the Copper River in this spot, to park a vehicle, load & unload rafts, and camp for up to 24 hours. Please look for the easement markers and respect the landowners who allow the easement to exist by staying within the boundary. This is an excellent place to observe Alaskans catching salmon or to snap a picture of the Copper River with Mount Drum in the distance. Here in Alaska our braided riverbeds can change quickly and become dangerous, so please be careful when driving near the water. On the south side of the road, after crossing the bridge, you’ll find a privately-run, primitive campground. This popular camping area has about 12 campsites, picnic tables, fire pits, and vault toilets.
Take your time when traveling the road. Take note of all the features around you: the mountains, rivers, trees, and wildlife. Think of the travelers who have come and gone down this exact path; of the distance that the glacially-fed Copper River has traversed; of the excitement that new visitors must have felt coming in to this area. Think about the journey you’re about to embark on, down the McCarthy Road, into the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve!
(Music fades in and out)
This concludes Track 1. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 2 when you reach mile 5, at a turnout to the south or right side of the road, with a scenic vista of the Chitina River.
Track 2: Chitina River scenic vista area
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There are several small pullouts which offer nice views of the Chitina River and the Chugach Mountains to the south. This is a great place to get photos and enjoy the fresh air that tends to blow through this river valley. Sometimes the river’s fine silt will cloud the valley below from the strong winds. The Chitina River is a braided river which is characterized by many dividing and reuniting channels, as well as numerous islands and gravel bars. The park’s braided rivers run heavy with sediment because much of the drainage basin is fed by glaciers. Glaciers slowly scour the underlying substrate they rest on, creating fine silt, sand, and gravel which gets carried downstream by the glacial melt waters. Because many of the park’s rivers are glacial, high water typically occurs during summer hot spells rather than with springtime snowmelt you may have experienced in other mountain ranges in the Lower 48. Low water usually occurs in late winter when nearly everything is frozen. Just downstream, the Chitina River meets up with the Copper River and travels many miles on its way to the Gulf of Alaska. The Copper River and its tributaries, including the Chitina River, drain an area of approximately 24,000 square miles! That’s almost the size of the state of West Virginia!
The path of the Copper River & Northwestern Railway followed these rivers as it reached into interior Alaska. Skeptics nicknamed the railway the “Can’t Run & Never Will,” a play on the initials of the real name for the railroad. They thought human engineering would never overcome this vast, rugged and wild landscape, but the railway’s builders overcame those incredible challenges in completing construction and maintaining operations. Preparations and surveying for the route began in 1905, construction began in 1907, and was completed in 1911.
(Sounds: workers hammering, people, construction sounds)
Six thousand workers encountered many hardships & struggles within the Alaskan wilderness as they toiled on the tracks. They laid rails over the vast Copper River delta, across the face of two active glaciers, over a glacier, up massive cliffs and canyons, through and over raging rivers, and past deep snow and avalanche prone areas. The men battled extreme cold and unforgiving swarms of mosquitoes. In Kennecott, a final ceremonial copper spike was driven on March 29th, 1911 marking the completion of the 196 mile railway. Now the owners of the Kennecott Copper Corporation had the most important part of their mining operation in place—the ability to transport the copper ore to market. Ore was shipped by rail to the waiting steam ships in the port of Cordova, and then floated south to a smelter in Tacoma, Washington. The first copper train to travel on the Copper River & Northwestern Railway carried an astonishing $250,000 worth of high grade copper on 35 ore-cars. Much more ore, valued at millions of dollars, would travel this route over the next 27 years.
(Sounds: Train whistle, train moving along)
The building of the railway was extremely challenging, but so was the continual maintenance and upkeep required of the railroad staff each year. Raging, changing rivers were always a challenge. Winters brought harsh conditions with avalanches and feet upon feet of snow. Workers attached rotary snowplows to the front of the train to clear the way. Sometimes the trains, supplies, ore, and men would be stuck for days or even weeks at a time when the snow was too much for even the plows. Workers would have to shovel out or wait it out. Sometimes engineers simply chose to shut down rail operations for the winter and bags of copper ore were stacked and stored, awaiting the spring thaw. Another unique challenge for workers was the maintenance of the Copper River bridge crossing. Today you drove across a modern steel and concrete bridge. During the copper mining era a wooden trestle carried railcars across the river. Men drove the wooden pilings into the riverbed to support the wooden bridge across the Copper River. Annually, this bridge was threatened by springtime ice melt and breakup. Ice jams quickly traveling downstream could and often would tear out the entire bridge. Engineers eventually decided to remove the rails each year, just before the spring breakup, allowing the water and ice to take the remaining wooden timbers downstream. After the spring breakup, crews would rebuild any missing wooden pilings and trestle, and re place the rails. This is another example of the struggles men dealt with while maintaining the railway in harsh Alaskan conditions. But without this integral railway, the mighty Kennecott Copper Corporation could never have existed.
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This concludes Track 2, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 3 when you reach mile 10, near Strelna, Silver, and Sculpin Lakes.
Track 3: Strelna Lake, Silver Lake, and Sculpin Lake area
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Are you interested in dropping a line and wrangling some fish in the Wrangells? Did you remember to bring your State of Alaska fishing license? Once you reach mile 10 you will pass several lakes that are stocked by the Alaska Department of Fish and Game and accessible to the public. In Silver and Sculpin Lakes you can find rainbow trout and there are Silver Salmon in Strelna Lake. There are public parking areas and the walk in to the lakes is less than one mile. These are also great places to kayak or canoe the remote and relaxing lakes. Don’t forget to respect private property and stick to the marked public access areas.
(Sounds: Canoeing, kayaking, fishing reel)
In Wrangell-St. Elias the lakes, rivers, plants, animals, mountains, and glacially carved valleys lie within the boreal forest ecosystem. The boreal forest is a northern forest biome. A biome is a large naturally occurring community of flora and fauna within a major habitat. This forest covers 28% of Canada and the United States, but can also be found in northern Europe and northern Asia, occupying more land than any other forest type in the world. Globally, the boreal forest, sometimes also called taiga, usually consists of pine, spruce, and/or larch trees. Here in Wrangell-St. Elias, our particular variety of boreal forest is dominated by black and white spruce, quaking aspen, paper birch, and balsam poplar. Common shrubs include willow, alder, cranberry, rose and blueberry. You might grab a plant identification book and seek out some of these interesting plants as you make your journey down the McCarthy Road!
In these forests, the trees sometimes grow densely, and other times they stand solitary in wide open meadows, muskeg, or tundra. This is a function of the brutally cold climate found here in the winter. The boreal forest is named after boreas the Greek god of the north wind. This north wind and northern latitude brings frigid winter temperatures, as low as -50F! The cold temperatures, short summers, discontinuous permafrost, and forest fires all play a part in managing the diversity of Alaska’s boreal forest.
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As you travel down the McCarthy Road to mile 14.5, you’ll find the road that leads to the Kotsina Trail and other backcountry routes. If you’re feeling up for a longer, overnight backpacking adventure, this road leads 2.5 miles to the Nugget Creek trailhead or 3.8 miles to the Dixie Pass trailhead. These three trails lead much farther into the rugged Wrangell Mountains, where scenic vistas abound. Near the end of the Nugget Creek trail, a very rustic public-use cabin may be available for overnight stays. There are many important things to consider if you plan to stay in the Nugget Creek public-use cabin, so please contact a park ranger for more information. Please respect private property that is interspersed along this trail. The initial section of the Kotsina trail is a gravel road, but is not maintained and may not be passable in low clearance vehicles. It’s a good idea to park your car on the side of the McCarthy Road and simply hike to the trailheads. If you’re not feeling up to it today, maybe try it out in the future! Ask a park ranger about details and route descriptions.
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This concludes Track 3, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 4 when you reach mile 17, at the Kuskulana Bridge area.
Track 4: Kuskulana Bridge area
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There are several pullouts on the south side of the road that provide excellent views of an amazing feat of engineering—the Kuskulana Bridge. This cantilever-styled bridge spans 525 feet across and is perched 238 feet above the Kuskulana River gorge. There’s a wayside and rest area on the far side of the bridge. This is a one-lane bridge, so watch for oncoming traffic or pedestrians.
(Sounds: Winter wind blowing, metal construction sounds)
The Kuskulana Bridge was constructed as part of the Copper River & Northwestern railway, moving passengers, supplies, and copper ore to and from the Kennecott Copper Mines. Amazingly, construction of this bridge, during a bitter winter, took only two months to complete! The pressure was on to complete the railway by the spring of 1911 because copper prices were high and bags of copper ore were filled and waiting on the loading docks in Kennecott. This bridge project would prove to be one of the greatest challenges of this improbable northern railway. Beginning in 1910, the workers braved temperatures as low as -54 degrees Fahrenheit! In Lone Jansen’s book The Copper Spike, she states “the men, working in this cruel weather, were so bundled up they were described as looking like so many wooly bears on a bridge.” Just imagine trying to work in those conditions!
Crews constructed the steel bridge in three pieces, two spans reaching from each side of the canyon and one center span. This strategy meant supplies were needed on both sides of the river and construction needed to take place simultaneously from each end. With true Alaskan spirit and tenacity, the men bundled up and toiled above the canyon through long, cold hours of darkness, with their work lit by the glow of acetylene lights. The center 225-foot-span was bolted into place as the thermometer hovered at -40 degrees! With the completion of the Kuskulana Bridge on New Year’s Day 1911, they only had 49 more miles of rails to lay to reach Kennecott!
Four months later, the railway was completed to Kennecott and serviced the area for over 27 years. In 1938 the Kennecott Copper Corporation closed the mines due to low copper prices and the fact that the copper ore was all but gone from these mountains. Subsequently the Copper River & Northwestern Railway was also shut down. When the railway was converted to a road in the 1960’s, the singe-lane Kuskulana Bridge was the only structure on the McCarthy Road originally built as a railway bridge to be kept in service as a vehicle bridge. However it was left without guard rails for many years! Can you imagine driving across this bridge with that steep 238 foot drop below you? This state managed road continues to grow and improve, with the maintenance efforts of the Alaska Department of Transportation. Road repairs, maintenance, grading, and improvements can be sporadic, and conditions depend greatly on the weather and traffic flow. Take it slow and watch for potholes and bumpy conditions.
This might be a good time to get out and take a break. Take a walk on the bridge, stretch your legs, snap a few photos, and enjoy the fresh air. Be mindful of approaching vehicles. If you’re up for a challenge, there is a catwalk that runs below the bridge. It doesn’t have an easy approach, so you’ll need some creativity or take a friend to help you reach it. It spans across the Kuskulana River and provides great views of the construction of the bridge. The wayside on the south side of the road has an interpretive kiosk, a vault toilet, and a trash bin for your convenience.
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This concludes Track 4. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 5 when you reach Mile 20, where there’s an open meadow and wetland.
Track 5: Open Grass Wetland
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(Sounds: Dragonfly, bog sounds, frogs, splashing birds, etc)
Watch for dragonflies as you approach an open meadow wetland with a great view of the Chugach Mountain range to the south, or on the right side of the road. There are three types of wetlands you might see along the McCarthy Road: grass, sedge, and bog wetlands.
In the grass wetland you see near mile 20, the species composition is mostly, as you might expect, water tolerant grasses. The grasses may grow in clumps or tussocks. Some woody plants can also live in the grass wetland, depending on the amount of water fluctuation. You might see a moose nearby eating willows or river otters crossing the road in search of a meal.
You’ll also see some sedge wetlands on your journey today. These wetlands are comprised of mostly sedges, which are like grasses, but with triangular stems. An easy way to remember the distinction is the phrase: “sedges have edges.” A sedge wetland looks very much like a large pond. It can host a large variety of plant life, waterfowl, and other wildlife. These wetlands are home to water lilies, beavers, and trumpeter swans. Stay alert and you might see a beaver gathering sticks for its lodge. Trumpeter swans are sometimes seen feeding with their heads under the water. Their heads and necks are often stained brownish from the iron-rich wetland soils. Other bird species include various Ducks, Grebes, Mergansers, and Goldeneyes.
(Sounds: Birds chirping or calling-Ducks, mergansers, or goldeneyes)
Bog wetlands are comprised of several feet of peat deposits, acidic waters, and an overlying vegetative layer of thick sphagnum moss. Bogs require a persistently wet and cool climate in order to allow the growth of peat-forming sphagnum moss. It may look like you can travel across a bog in places, but they are actually heavily saturated with water and both legs and wheels will sink. If you’re a birder, keep an eye out for the Olive-sided Flycatcher, Lesser Yellowlegs, Wilson’s Snipe, Yellow-rumped warbler, Swainson’s Thrush, or Solitary Sandpiper hanging out in the bogs.
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Alaska’s wetlands occupy about 43% of the state’s surface area. That means Alaskan wetlands hold more territory than the state of Texas! These wetland ecosystems often follow the edges of various other ecosystems, which results in a diverse array of plant and animal species. In Wrangell-St. Elias you’ll find wetlands teeming with wildlife at almost every turn.
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This concludes Track 5. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 6 when you reach Mile 29 or the Gilahina Trestle Wayside.
Track 6: Gilahina trestle area
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As you come down the hill, you’ll see the gorgeous Gilahina trestle, a wooden railroad structure named for the river it crosses. This trestle is yet another remnant of the copper mining days and the Copper River and Northwestern Railway. The rest area on the right has an interpretive kiosk, a vault toilet, and a trash bin for your convenience. If you haven’t stopped yet on your journey, this is an excellent place to get out, stretch your legs, explore, and learn a bit more about the history of the area. If you’re out on a stroll looking at the trestle, stay still and listen to the birds and the flowing Gilahina River as it runs downstream. Look for wildlife, search for wildflowers, but please stay off the unstable trestle.
(Sounds: General outdoor sounds, birds, rustling in the bushes, etc.)
Wooden trestles were commonly used along the Railway corridor to span gaps and canyons in the rugged Alaskan terrain. A total of 273 wooden trestles were constructed as part of the Copper River and Northwestern Railway. That means trestles spanned more than 30 miles or about 15% of the 196-mile railway. Of these trestles, the Gilahina was the largest: originally 890 feet long, 90 feet high, and consisting of ½ million board feet of lumber! Of the numerous struggles in the construction of this trestle in the winter of 1911, the weather turned out to be the greatest challenge for workers to overcome. During January of that year, the thermometer sank to a bone-chilling -67 degrees Fahrenheit! A temperature equivalent to the average surface temperatures on Mars! Despite the harsh conditions, the workers persevered and pushed to complete the construction in just 8 days! Amazing! Here’s how a railroad official described the feat:
(Different voice style- Male) “Call it what you will, the work is nothing short of marvelous, when weather conditions are taken into consideration. For the past two weeks the thermometer has been ranging between 30 and 60 below and at times during the extremely cold hours, trouble was experienced by the carpenters in driving the bolts, which split the heavy timbers like a cake of ice.”
Even with such difficulties, and the exorbitant cost of construction and maintenance, the Kennecott Copper Corporation was able to generate enough profit from the processing of the copper ore in the early 1900’s to make it all worthwhile. The extremely high grade copper ore, upwards of 70% copper, was very lucrative. Ultimately, the Kennecott Copper Corporation realized earnings of 100 million dollars! That’s more than 1.6 billion in today’s dollars! Despite the Kennecott Mines shutting down in 1938, the corporation lived on through a series of mergers and purchases of mining operations worldwide. In 1989, the Kennecott Corporation was purchased by Rio Tinto global mining company, which still exists today as Kennecott Utah Copper. They continue to mine Utah’s Bingham open-pit copper mine, the largest man-made excavation in the world. It’s incredible to think that this risky, turn of the century enterprise in the wilds of Alaska, would be the start of the great Kennecott Copper Corporation, and eventually an integral part of a global mining empire.
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This concludes Track 6. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 7 when you reach mile 34 or near the Crystalline Hills area.
Track 7: Crystalline Hills area
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If you’re looking for a place to leave the road behind and stretch your legs, the Crystalline Hills area has a leisurely hike along a loop trail. The trail provides an intimate experience with a spruce forest. Several spur trails lead to panoramic views of the Chitina River Valley, Moose Lake and the Chugach Mountains to the south. You can go as far as you like and turn back at any time. In June and July, take bug spray to keep mosquitoes at bay! And don’t forget your camera!
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Have you seen any wildlife along the road? Approaching the Crystalline Hills you’ll see mountains & cliffs on the north or left hand side of the road. This is an excellent place to look for wildlife. Sometimes it can be hard to spot wildlife in Wrangell-St. Elias due to the vast wilderness and dense vegetation. If you take it slow and learn a few tricks, perhaps you’ll be lucky on your journey today.
One tip is to use a pair of binoculars to search the hillsides. The Crystalline Hills area is a great place to scan for Dall sheep on the high mountainsides and open rocky ridges. Take a few minutes to get out of your vehicle, and look along the hills for white spots that look like snow. If the snow moves, it may be a Dall sheep! So what’s the difference between a Dall sheep and a Mountain Goat? Both are white and live in similar habitats, but the sheep are marked by curled horns that wrap around their ears, while mountain goats have short, straight spiky horns. A sheep’s coat is also a bit shorter, when compared to the shaggy, long white hair of the Mountain Goat. Want to be able to tell the difference between male and female sheep? Male Dall sheep, called rams, have large, iconic, circular curls and females, called ewes, have less curved, shorter horns, which are more slender. In the summer males and females are rarely seen together, with the exception of young immature rams that stay with mom. Sheep like to bed down on exposed edges in order to watch for predators. This population is one of the largest concentrations of Dall sheep in North America. It’s estimated that the Dall sheep population is around 13,000! Wrangell-St. Elias was created in part to protect this precious population of Dall sheep living here.
Another wildlife spotting tip is to slow down and look beyond the tall bushes and trees along the roadside. Sometimes wildlife can be camouflaged very well in the shrubs. The black, brown, and grey hair on Moose and the shaggy brown, blond or black fur of bears blend in very well with the willow and alder branches. If you see a moose or bear disappear into the woods, stop at that location on the road and take a second to look for them. You might just see one, standing still, just barely camouflaged and hiding in plain sight. Bears can often be seen in the open in the fall, along streams and rivers where salmon are spawning. Both black and grizzly bears live in Wrangell-St. Elias, but you’re more likely to spot black bears in the forested areas along the McCarthy Road. Black bears can be any color, not just black, so look for a few key features to help correctly identify them: a flat nose sloping to their forehead, large ears, no noticeable hump on their shoulders, and shorter, more curved claws. Bears are voracious eaters and will feed on almost anything. They are omnivores, meaning they will eat whatever is available. But they usually eat grasses, roots, berries, and insects. In Alaska, fish can be a large part of a bear’s diet. Black bears, on average, usually weigh between 90 to 551 pounds. Size varies greatly by age, gender, health, and season. Keep wildlife wild! Remember to stay a safe distance from wildlife, even in your vehicle.
Of course, in Wrangell-St. Elias, one Alaskan icon may be easily seen along the road: moose of course! Have you seen one yet? If you spend any time on Alaskan roads, you’ll have a good chance of seeing one of these giant, charismatic animals. Moose frequent roadsides and can be seen grazing on willows near water. Sometimes you’ll even catch their lanky bodies coming up out of the water. What a sight! Moose are excellent swimmers and seek out sodium-rich aquatic plants at the bottom of lakes and ponds. Moose have specially adapted noses for diving too! While you might hold your nose before jumping in a pool, a moose uses a fatty pad and strong facial muscles to close its nostrils preventing water from getting in. Moose are herbivores and will eat both terrestrial and aquatic plants. A typical moose might eat about 70 pounds of food per day! An average moose can weigh about 800 pounds! For males, or Bull Moose, part of that weight is his antlers. The record for the heaviest moose antlers was in Alaska, with a rack weighing in at 79 pounds! Can you imagine carrying around almost 80 pounds of weight on your head?! Many Moose are killed on roadsides in Alaska each year, so be careful driving!
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This concludes Track 7. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 8 when you reach mile 44 or are near the Lakina River Bridge.
Track 8: Lakina River area
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You’re about to cross the Lakina River bridge. This river is primarily fed by the Lakina Glacier and other meltwater from that drainage. It’s a smaller river than the Kuskulana or the Kennicott rivers, but its waters are still a powerful force. During the summer months, glaciers and their meltwater carry a variety of sediments down valley. Where you’re crossing the Lakina River, you’ll see large rocks, gravel and finer sediments in the streambed. You may notice a blueish hue to the water. This is due to the presence of fine sediments, called glacial flour or rock flour, produced by a grinding action up valley. When rocks held within a glacier meet up with mountainsides and bedrock, the friction causes the release of a very fine powder. This powder is so fine it stays suspended in the meltwater, rather than settling to the bottom. As the glacier flour swirls around in the rivers and streams, it reflects a beautiful light blue color in small quantities, and darker tan or gray when the silt is highly concentrated. When looking at Alaska’s inland waters, this blue or whitish “glacial milk,” or even the darker tans or grays, is a good indication that a glacier is upstream.
Glaciers are formed when winter snows accumulate year after year, are compressed into ice, and ultimately get heavy enough to flow. A glacier can move like a slow river of ice down a valley. Although glaciers move slowly, they have a lot of power to destroy anything in their path. Upstream from where you are now, the Lakina Glacier is working like a bulldozer to move large rocks down the mountain and dropping them to create moraines. A moraine is any accumulation of glacial debris, like soil and rock, occurring in an area that has been or is currently glaciated. The Wrangell and Chugach mountains you see around you were at one time heavily glaciated. Those glaciers carved these valleys thousands of years ago, and some are still here working to carve out mountain peaks, basins, and valleys. The glaciers in Wrangell-St. Elias cover more than 34% of the land area, or over 7,000 square miles of the park! The ice in Wrangell-St. Elias is larger than the size of the state of Connecticut! Glaciers are an unmatched powerful force on this landscape.
If you’re looking for adventure, this is a great area for some backcountry exploration! It’s a strenuous trip, but several guide services offer trips into the Lakina drainage from the Kennecott area. This requires a week long, wilderness hike, followed by a bush plane ride back to town. You can skip the plane and get an adrenaline rush by packrafting your way down the Lakina River to make a loop as well. This type of trip is only for experienced hikers and rafters, but if you’re interested, ask a park ranger about details.
Later on when you’re done touring the McCarthy Road, you’ll find several glaciers in the Kennecott Valley carving out the valley, their moraines taking shape along and below the glaciers, and see the river that flows out of the valley. If you plan on staying in the Kennicott Valley, you’ll have the opportunity to see these glaciers at work. Take a short walk down to the Toe of the Kennicott Glacier and take in the sights and sounds of the melting, cracking, and crumbling face of the glacier. Better yet, head up to the town of Kennecott to hike on the white ice of the Root Glacier. Chat with a park ranger for directions to these places. They are unforgettable experiences if you have enough time here in Wrangell-St. Elias!
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This concludes Track 8. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 9 when you reach Mile 45 or near the Long Lake area. This will be shortly after this track finishes.
Track 9: Long Lake area
(Music starts and fades out) As you approach Long Lake, you’ll notice there are several private land owners in the area. This spot was a traditional homesteading area during the mining years. Original residents first moved here in the early 1900’s, when McCarthy and Kennecott were first established. These homesteads were once farms where grain was grown for draft animals and vegetables were harvested for the railroad workers and miners in Kennecott. Access to locally grown, fresh food during the summer season was important in such a remote location, since it took so long to get supplies and goods from the lower 48. The food served in the Kennecott bunkhouses was said to be “mostly good” and workers were happy to have the constant supply of goods brought by the railway.
(Music, Water running sounds)
Starting in late summer, Long Lake is a good place to look for spawning salmon coming from downstream. Take a peek in this stream from the road, but be aware that all of the land around this stream is private property. Each year an average of 18,000 sockeye salmon struggle up the silty Copper and Chitina Rivers to spawn in this lake! This is the largest known sockeye salmon population within the Chitina River drainage. It’s a very unique run of salmon. They’re unique because they begin entering the lake as early as August and spawning continues until April. This salmon population has the longest known annual spawning duration of any sockeye salmon population in North America. Most Alaskan sockeye salmon spawn in the late summer and fall, then die in the streambed shortly thereafter.
Just downstream from the outlet of the lake there is a weir, or a fence-like barrier used for counting fish, that has been in operation since 1974. Each year it keeps track of how many salmon swim into Long Lake and through the weir. This is the longest running data set of weir counts of salmon in the Copper River drainage. Initially the Alaska Department of Fish and Game ran it. In 1976 Cliff Collins, the local land owner, voluntarily took over the procedures when state funding was no longer available. Since 2002, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve has operated this weir, with help from the Collins Family Trust, every summer. When he homesteaded this area in the 1960’s, Cliff Collins turned the historic railroad depot, from the mining era, into his home.
(Sounds: Loons calling, lake sounds)
You may wonder how a private landowner can have property inside the National Park. Perhaps you saw a bunch of signs along the road stating: “Entering Wrangell-St. Elias…” “Leaving Wrangell-St. Elias…” How confusing?! These signs are land ownership changes and clarification between national park and national preserve. After you crossed the Copper River in Chitina, you’ve been within the park boundary and haven’t left it. There are several places along the road where private or state land exists side by side with the National Park and Preserve lands. These are called “inholdings,” or privately owned lands that are inside the boundary of a national park, preserve, forest, state park, or similar publicly owned, protected areas. Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve was created in 1980 through the passage of ANILCA or the Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation Act, which acknowledged the presence of these inholdings and made provisions for continued access to them. That’s why you’ll sometimes see private homes within the park.
In recognition of the unique nature of Alaskan parks and some of the traditional activities that had occurred in the area for many years, ANILCA also provided for two different types of management of the land. You probably saw signs saying: “National Preserve” pointing one direction, or “National Park” to another direction. These signs distinguish between the two types of management: park and preserve. There are a few differences between the two, but the main difference is that sport hunting and fishing is allowed in the National Preserve. In the National Park land, only local residents can hunt, which is different from other National Parks in the lower 48. These allowances were written into the legislation when Wrangell-St. Elias was created. This kept with the historical uses and allows residents to continue to live off the land in a true Alaskan spirit.
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Soon you’ll be approaching the end of the McCarthy road and the west side of the community of McCarthy. McCarthy was homesteaded in 1906 at the beginning of the copper mining boom; founded and named by John Barrett. Barrett named the town after his friend, a prospector named James McCarthy. Tragically, James McCarthy had recently drowned in the Tonsina River after being thrown from his horse. The town was initially developed as an outpost and supply stop for those making their way to the Shushanna gold fields, but found its true purpose in supporting Kennecott, 5 miles up the hill. The town of McCarthy provided a place of release for weary workers, a place to grab a drink, gamble, and perhaps spend an evening with one of the professional women on the row. As one might imagine, the generally lawless community of McCarthy posed a stark contrast to the rules and regulations of the strict Kennecott company town, where alcohol was forbidden and only employees were allowed in the camp. Today that contrast can still be felt, as McCarthy is known as a rugged, frontier bush community, while Kennecott has become an important National Historic Landmark and is known for its quiet atmosphere.
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This concludes Track 9. At this time, go ahead and pause or stop this recording. Proceed to Track 10 when you reach Mile 56 or the end of the road.
Estimated time: 6:11
Track 10: End of the road
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You’re almost to the end of the road, and to the beginning of an even greater adventure! When you arrive in McCarthy, on your left, you’ll see the McCarthy Road Information Station, maintained by the National Park Service. This wayside area has free day-use parking, vault toilets, interpretive kiosks, information on shuttles and services, & the West Glacier hiking trailhead. No camping is allowed in this area. The Information Station is not typically staffed, but is a great place to gather information and get your bearings. If you choose to park at the McCarthy Road Information Station for the day, it’s a one mile walk down to the Kennicott River footbridge. You may also park overnight in marked private parking areas, further down the road. You’ll need to park your vehicle, as there is no public access with a vehicle beyond the footbridge. Then you’ll proceed over the footbridge to access the town of McCarthy and Kennecott. Once across the footbridge, you can purchase a shuttle ride to McCarthy, another mile away, and/or to Kennecott mill town, about 5 miles away. You may also choose to walk or bike this distance. If you’re on foot, you have two options. You can walk the road, which can be dusty at times. Or choose the historic Wagon Road, which parallels the main road with a bit more shade. To access the Wagon Road, follow the main road about 1.5 miles towards Kennecott. On your right will be a red community building labelled “Tony Zak.” Across the road on your left is a shed. Shortly after, there’s an old road bed where the trail leads into the forest towards Kennecott. The trail will narrow as you head uphill to Kennecott. This trek offers periodic views of the valley, wildflowers, and the historic Kennecott Cemetery. Be on the lookout for bears, lynx, weasels, and squirrels. It’s essential you make noise while hiking anywhere in this valley, in order to alert bears to your presence and avoid a negative interaction. If you decide to camp in the valley, you must store your food properly: in a bear resistant canister or in designated bear boxes. You can check out bear cans from the National Park Service free of charge. Ask a ranger for more details! Regardless of what you choose to do in McCarthy or Kennecott, we hope you enjoy your time in these historic frontier towns.
When you reach the end of the road, you’ll have to park your car before proceeding across the Kennicott River footbridge. The state of Alaska maintains the footbridge and it’s against state law to drive any vehicle across—it’s for foot traffic only. The last vehicle bridge washed out in 1975. From that time until the mid-1990’s a hand tram & cable was used to cross the turbulent Kennicott River. A daunting task if you’re carrying all your gear or supplies! You can still see the cable crossing the river today. If you visit the McCarthy-Kennicott Museum, across the footbridge and just down the road, you can see the metal trams which took people across the river. The museum has lots of other interesting exhibits and neat historic artifacts inside, so check it out!
In McCarthy you’ll find an array of services such as lodging, food, and guide companies. Throughout the summer McCarthy hosts educational workshops, live music, dancing, trivia nights and weekly softball games. You can grab a shuttle ride to Kennecott from the footbridge or in downtown McCarthy. This shuttle takes you up to Kennecott to view the once bustling copper mining town. In Kennecott you’ll also find lodging, food, and guide companies. Be sure to visit the National Park Service Information Station in the historic mill town, where park rangers are ready to help you plan trips, check out bear canisters, provide maps, and answer any questions you may have.
Kennecott truly is in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve and offers breathtaking views of glaciers, mountains, and rivers. Up valley to the north and east you’ll see the Stairway Icefall. This feature, which is a part of the Root Glacier, comes down from Mount Regal at a steep pitch, causing the ice to crack and fissure. As it reaches the valley, the Root Glacier becomes less rugged and provides excellent access for hiking and ice climbing. You can hike out to the Root Glacier via a relatively easy trail starting from the Kennecott mill town. One of the most striking freatures seen from the historic site is the Kennicott Glacier, which is covered with moraine rocks, and starts up valley almost 28 miles to the north at Mount Blackburn. The towering 16,390-foot peak is the highest in the Wrangell Mountains and the fifth highest in the United States. Mount Blackburn is an inactive shield volcano and is the second highest volcano in the US. Today, the Wrangell Mountains are a volcanic mountain range, but they have a much longer tectonic history that includes millions of years of uplift, then erosion.
The terminus, or lowest portion, of the Kennicott Glacier is covered in debris that makes it look from a distance like large piles of rock. The icy glacier is actually under all of that rock, which is typically only a foot or two thick. The glacier melts and combines with nearby streams to create the Kennicott River. This river flows down to the Nizina River, into the Chitina, and eventually into the Copper River, where you started your journey today. We hope you’ve enjoyed the trip and are excited to get out and see more of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park & Preserve.
Instructions to download the Audio Tour mp3 files to a smart phone:
Click on desired park road audio tour to open and while playing or on pause, download to phone. Android smart phone, click on the menu (3 vertical dots symbol) and choose download option. Apple i-phone, click on download symbol (box with upward pointing arrow), choose where to save, click on Save (top right corner button).
