Rock Climbing

 

Climbers from around the world are drawn to the dramatic sandstone cliffs of Obed Wild & Scenic River. Known for steep, athletic movement and breathtaking views above the river, the Obed offers a mix of sport, trad, and bouldering across a wide range of difficulties.

 

Climbing Locations

Lilly Bluff Climbing Area

Park near Lilly Bridge if spaces are available. From the west end of the bridge, take the Bridge Trail and follow signs to the climbing area.

If parking at Lilly Bridge is full, park at the Lilly Overlook parking lots. From there, follow the Overlook Trail, turn right onto the Bridge Trail, and stay on the trail closest to the cliff base until you reach the climbing area.

Bouldering Area

A short 0.4-mile trail leads from the Lilly Bluff Overlook parking lot to the Boulder Field.

 

Rock climber on Rage.

Mark Large

Steep, Overhanging Cliffs

The Obed Wild & Scenic River is known for its steep, overhanging sandstone cliffs, where the rock often leans beyond vertical. These formations create challenging climbing routes and dramatic exposure above the river.

Several well-known climbing areas within the park highlight this defining feature:

Stephen King’s Library is a named rock-climbing area near the confluence of Clear Creek and the Obed River. The cliffs here are a clear example of the Obed’s overhanging terrain. Many routes climb straight up a vertical wall and then continue outward along a long, horizontal roof, leaving climbers hanging beneath the rock rather than standing on it.

Tierrany is another established climbing area along the Obed River. The rock here forms steep, stair-stepped overhangs that angle out over the river. Climbers often move across the underside of the cliff, high above the water below.

 

Types of Climbing Opportunities

Sports Climbing

The Obed is best known for its approximately 350 sport routes, which are permanently bolted.

• Difficulty range: 5.7 to 5.14
• Routes graded 5.7 to 5.9 can still be demanding for new climbers
• Only a small number of climbers are capable of attempting the hardest routes (5.13 and 5.14)

Traditional (Trad) Climbing

Opportunities also exist for traditional climbing, where climbers place removable protection of natural cracks and features in the rock. This style requires advanced skills, sound judgment, and a solid understanding of anchor systems.

Bouldering

Bouldering is unroped, climbing close to the ground, and is also popular throughout the park. Crash pads and attentive spotting are strongly recommended.

 

NPS Photo

Climbing Group

One particular group, the East Tennessee Climbers Coalition (ETCC), has for the past several years been a valued partner of Obed WSR. The ETCC spends many weekends climbing a variety of sport routes in the park. They are on hand each year to help out with programs and events.