A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location on Sulphide Glacier can be found here:
| Route |
Reported Conditions |
| Fisher Chimney |
Use blue bags to pack out human waste.
9/9/26 - Hell's Highway is currently still a snow climb.
8/8/26 - Route is in good condition, No ice on Winnie's Slide and Hell's Highway. There will likely be ice in 2-3 weeks. There are some weakening snow bridges on the Upper Curtis Glacier; however, the route is still generally straightforward through this section. There is running water both above and below Winnie's Slide.
7/31/26- Winnie’s slide and Hell’s highway are still steep snow climbs – no exposed blue ice yet, but conditions could change in a few weeks. Climbing rangers recommend at least one climbing partner carry 2 ice tools in case the route melts out to blue ice in those sections. There are no accessible rappel anchors for Winnie’s slide – parties must down climb.
The center gully of summit pyramid is snow-free at the top now! SE ridge is straight-forward. There are currently rappel stations climber's left of the gully. Each station can be reached with a 60m rope; using a 50m rope requires some 4th class downclimbing.
7/12/26- Patches of snow traverse start at 5300 ft. Be wary of following established boot pack in the snow as the snow melts and forms weak undercut near rocks. Climbers can avoid touching snow in the chimneys by staying left of the remaining large snow patch. Winnie’s Slide and Hell’s Highway have great snow coverage and are in good condition.
6/14/26- Expect early season conditions for this route. There is most likely a mix of snow and rock in the chimney still, especially after the snowstorm we got last week. Be aware of avalanches and overhead hazards during the approach to the chimneys.
6/10/26- State Route 542 (Mount Baker Highway) is open to Artist Point.
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| Sulphide Glacier |
9/9/26 - There are few patches of snow prior to reaching the lower bivy area. No running water at the main lower bivy area but clear ponds of water are available at the edges of snow. The upper bivy has very limited dry sites - please camp on bare ground or snow and not on vegetation. There are more dry sites available at the lower bivy area.
There is an exposed rock band just above the upper bivy. Climbers will have to transition between snow and rock before a straight-forward walk on the glacier to the summit pyramid. There is a section of blue ice above the rock band, which is currently avoidable if the party choose to take a detour around it. The glacier is overall still very filled in with few cracks just below the summit pyramid.
8/9/26 - Composting toilet is snow-free and in service at the lower bivy and upper bivy. Running water available at the lower bivy but not at the upper bivy. Snow camping only at the upper bivy. There are limited dry sites at the lower bivy – be prepared to camp on snow on weekends. Sulphide glacier is still in great shape with only one visible crevasse near the boot pack. Consider saddle bagging your ropes while rappelling the gully, especially when there are parties below you. After the last rappel, you will have to scramble down to reach the snow.
7/5/26- Snow begins near the National Park boundary and the trail is about 75% snow-covered from this point to the Lower Bivy. At the Lower Bivy, several sites are snow-free and the toilet is in service. Running water is also available at the Lower Bivy. At the Upper Bivy, the toilet is mostly snow-covered but usable.
6/14/26- Continuous snow starts at the NPS boundary on the approach to the Sulphide Glacier. The lower composting toilet at 6200' feet was shoveled out and is ready for use. There was one dry campsite on rock available at 6200 feet. Recent snowfall combined with warm daytime temperatures made for soft snow conditions on the glacier with significant post-holing for those not on skis. No open and visible crevasses were crossed on the route traversing the Sulphide Glacier from the lower camping area to the base of the summit pyramid. The central gully was filled in with snow and is currently a snow climb to the summit. The SE ridge appeared clear of snow and appeared dry.
5/20/26- Center gully route is full of snow but melting out quick. SE Ridge route is still mixed snow/rock.
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A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location on Eldorado can be found here:
| Route |
Reported Conditions |
| Eldorado Peak - East Ridge |
9/2/26 - Approach is in standard condition with snow starting at the Eldorado Glacier. Climbers are able to get to the base of East Ridge camp with some blue ice just below Eggplant. Minor crevasses can be easily avoided on the flat section to camp. The standard East Ridge route from camp to summit has some crevasses that are easily avoidable. Recent snow fall has hidden or obscured some cracks but a distinct boot pack remains.
7/26/26 - Hammered ridge and the descent gully to Roush Creek Basin is snow-free. Consistent snow travel starts above 6400'. Toilet at the East Ridge bivy is really wet and smelly – please do not pee in the toilet! Flowing water available below bivy sites / NE of toilet. Eldorado East Ridge route is still full snow travel with a few open crevasses. There is a large patch of avoidable ice near the summit. Knife edge is still wide and the summit itself is snow-free. |
| Dorado Needle |
6/21/26 - NW Ridge is snow-free. |
A detailed climbing blog and composting toilet location at Boston Basin can be found here:
| Route |
Reported Conditions |
| Boston Basin Approach and Camp Conditions |
HIGH BEAR ACTIVITY IN THE AREA. PROPER FOOD STORAGE IS REQUIRED AT ALL TIMES.
9/6/26: There were lots of bears in the basin, including a sow with a cub and a sow with two cubs. They were mainly sighted between the lower and upper bivies. Rangers also encountered one large black bear on the approach trail in dense woods – the bear took a while to move off the trail despite lots of large noises from the rangers.
7/6/26: Many snow-free sites at the upper bivy. Lower bivy is fully melted out.
6/14/26: The Junuary snowstorm (6/5-6/10) delivered a significant amount of snow to the upper elevations. Rangers observed the snow melting fast this weekend post storm with lots of point releases near rock faces and loose wet slides on steeper slopes. There were a few dry sites at the lower bivy camp but the upper bivy was still fully snow-covered. Both composting toilets at lower and upper bivy are dug out and in service for the season. Rangers observed improper Ursack usage at camp; please follow the manufacturer’s recommendation of how to tie off and secure the bag.
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| Forbidden Peak |
9/6/26: Lingering fresh snow on some ledges up high, and more on the north side of the ridges. Climbers do not have to touch snow to access cat scratch gullies, so you can leave your ice axe and crampons at home if your only objective is to climb the West Ridge of Forbidden. Cat scratch gullies had small patches of fresh snow and ice, which may melt during the next few warm days, but be wary of icy patches anytime of the month if overnight temperature drops near or below freezing. There were fresh snow and ice patches on the north side of West Ridge but avoidable on route. Some rappel stations on the ridge are meant to drop climbers to the north side and down climb/ traverse to the next station, which can be avoided if the party is comfortable down leading the ridge instead.
7/4/26: West Couloir is confirmed to be out for the season. Cat-scratch gullies are in mixed condition and still snowy in a few spots, particularly entering and leaving the gullies. We took the arete climbers left following the rappel anchors to ascend and found them dry and much more solid than the gullies. West Ridge is completely snow-free, with all anchors in good condition. East ridge is snow free, with the approach having consistent easy snow. Climbers reported that the North ridge can mostly be traveled on rock, avoiding snow.
6/14/26: Large cracks are forming in the west couloir, and cat-scratch gullies are not free of snow yet. Give it another week or so, if warm, sunny conditions continue, the gullies and west ridge could be in without snow.
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| Sahale |
9/6/26: Quien Sabe Glacier had large crevasses open, despite it being better filled in than last year this time of the year.
7/5/26: Quien Sabe Glacier has good travel conditions with firm snow and ice. Cracks are beginning to develop with some navigation required around crevasses. Cornice is still there on the ridge and appears to be ready to go. The last 100 feet on the summit block is snow free.
6/14/26: Quien Sabe Glacier is in great shape with straightforward travel. There was only a short section of rock steps to gain the summit block from steep snow. If you wish to rappel to the Sahale Glacier side, a 30m rap will take you all the way to the snow – though this may change in a few days. Expect some downclimbing on potentially wet rock if you do not have a 60m rope. The new snow was still not consolidated this past weekend, so rangers and parties climbing Sahale this weekend had to deal with knee-deep post-holing on the descent.
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| Sharkfin |
6/14/26: The approach gully was filled with snow. The rock appeared to be mostly snow-free four days post storm.
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| Torment-Forbidden Traverse |
No recent report.
Permits for doing the traverse fall under Boston Basin Cross-Country Zone (Not Torment Basin).
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