East Ridge- 9/16/16

September 18, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers

Eldorado Peak (East Ridge)9/16/2016

Approach: The log crossing over the Cascade River is intact, follow trail from the second log to a trailhead signpost where the unmaintained climber's path begins. The trail is steep and muddy to the talus fields. Follow cairns through the lower talus and bear climber's left in the upper talus field (around 5,000') to find the best trail. A bear was seen grazing on blueberries, use appropriate food storage. Cross the Roush/Eldorado divide and descend a 3rd class gully which is currently snow-free. Traverse rock slabs to the toe of the Eldorado Glacier.

Route: Navigate open crevasses and bare glacial ice to the Eldorado-Inspiration col. Head for the toe of the East Ridge. The bivy sites are snow free, running water could still be found.

The composting toilet has been winterized and is no longer accessible, bring blue bags!

The remainder of the East Ridge can be ascended on rock, or one can follow the traditional route across the snow arête. There is exposed glacial ice on the NE Face that would provide a couple pitches of ice climbing if one wanted to seek that out.

Toe of Eldorado Glacier:

:Toe of Eldorado Glacier

Early Morning Spire and Dorado Needle:

Early Morning Spire and Dorado Needle

Inspiration Glacier and Klawatti Peak:

Inspiration Glacier and Klawatti



Last updated: September 18, 2016

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