Wilderness

Sunrise during a ranger led overnight hike to the Crack in the Rock Pueblo in 2022.

NPS/L.Carter

Perched on the southern Colorado Plateau between the ponderosa forests of the San Francisco Peaks and the sprawling badlands of the Painted Desert, the Wupatki Eligible Wilderness preserves more than 34,000 acres of expansive dry and rugged high-desert. Extreme winds whip across the open prairies in the spring months, sapping moisture from brittle bunchgrasses and whisking dust into the air. Oppressive Arizona heat descends upon the region in summer, while monsoon clouds tease the horizon with the often-unfaithful promise of rain. In the winter, snow regularly blankets the sloping juniper prairies, accompanied by a soft silence so seldom heard in the bustling mechanized world.

Largely undeveloped and unmarred by traces of modern society, the Wupatki Eligible Wilderness is most renowned for its incredible, abundant archeological record dating back at least 13,500 years. More than 2,700 individual archeological sites, predominately from the Ancestral Pueblo Era, have been documented in the Wupatki backcountry, each one lending a piece to the puzzle of how poeple have lived and interacted with this barren, wild environment. In some areas of the wilderness, there are more than 100 sites in a square mile—a truly astounding site density, unrivaled by all but Mesa Verde National Park, 250 miles northeast. In many areas, it is impossible to take even a single step without encountering a potsherd, flake, or remnant of a human made structure.

From the immense vistas stretching deep into the Painted Desert from Wupatki's native grassland savanna, to the archeological resources that give us invaluable insights into cultures past, the Wupatki Eligible Wilderness is a unique and tranquil landscape— one that lends itself to reflection and reverence for both human history and the natural world. Indeed it is landscapes like these that enrich us with valuable perspectives of the evolving human experience though ever-moving time.

 

Expansive views with dynamic skies are common in the Wupatki backcountry.

Crack-In-Rock hike participant Bob Kuo

Pursuant to the Wilderness Act of 1964, and in accordance with National Park Service (NPS) Management Policies (2006), Section 6.2.1, the NPS has completed a Wilderness Eligibility Assessment to determine if lands within Wupatki National Monument (Wupatki or monument) meet criteria indicating eligibility for preservation as wilderness. On July 26, 2022, Wupatki National Monument published a Federal Register Notice as the final eligibility determination notification.

Natural and cultural resources within the monument are significant to a number of contemporary American Indian tribes, as evidenced by oral history, archeological study, and continuing traditional practices. Thirteen tribes consider lands within Wupatki to be a part of their ancestral homes and cultural origins. To these tribes, Wupatki still holds immense cultural and spiritual significance. In accordance with NPS policy, resource managers try to accommodate traditional practices including plant gathering and sacred site visitation for tribal members. This continued cultural relevance of the Wupatki wilderness adds value to wilderness character, helping us better understand the context of this incredible cultural resource record, and keeping the cultural landscape alive for generations to come.

Wupatki National Monument has determined that a significant portion of the lands within the monument are eligible for wilderness designation. Areas determined to be eligible for wilderness designation total 34,194 acres or 96.5% of Wupatki's total 35,424 acres, with the remaining 1,230 acres or 3.5% of total monument acreage determined not eligible for wilderness designation.

 

NPS

Eligible wilderness areas at Wupatki National Monument are subdivided into the following areas:

Eligible Wilderness Area 1 (far left on map): 6,284 acres. This area contains outstanding grassland resources with some juniper savanna in the eastern portions. The landscape is dominated by basalt mesas and offers prime habitat for pronghorn antelope. The area is largely undeveloped and retains most of its primeval character. This area is managed to protect pronghorn habitat and sensitive cultural resources. The western-most portion of this area is affected by the presence of Highway 89 but is still eligible to be designated as wilderness.

Eligible Wilderness Area 2 (middle and largest section on map): 21,168 acres. Almost the entire area is undeveloped, with few signs of people and one rarely used administrative road (Crack-in-Rock Road). This area generally appears to be affected primarily by natural forces. The area offers a variety of habitats including native grassland, juniper savanna, and cold desert scrub, and is bisected by a prominent geologic feature known as the Doney monocline. The monocline contains deeply incised washes including Antelope Wash, and outstanding views of the Painted Desert, Little Colorado River valley to the north and east, and the San Francisco Peaks to the south. Spectacular features found in this area include red formations of Moenkopi sandstone and areas such as Deadman Wash, which extends from well south of the monument around the north side of the San Francisco Peaks, all the way to the Little Colorado River.

Eligible Wilderness Area 3 (lower left and smallest section on map): 1,929 acres. This area surrounds Wupatki National Monument's primary interpretive feature, the Visitor Center, and the housing area. Some development has occurred within this area to support monument operations; however, it is confined to the Wupatki Visitor Center area and on top of the Woodhouse Mesa. One above ground utility line runs to Woodhouse Mesa, however, as the monument strives to become more energy efficient and self-sufficient, it will pursue removing the above ground line. The rest of the area consists of Doney Mountain and Deadman Wash. Although this wilderness area is less than 5,000 acres, this area can be managed as wilderness because the landscape is homogenous with the surrounding eligible wilderness areas but is bisected by the primary road that goes through Wupatki. This area has many locations not affected by modern development and the potential for seclusion exists in this area. The area outside of the administrative zones is undeveloped and is affected primarily by natural forces.

Eligible Wilderness Area 4 (lower right section on map): 4,813 acres. This area contains outstanding Moenkopi sandstone outcrops and deep washes. The landscape is dominated by basalt mesas and offers prime locations for isolation and quiet. The area is largely undeveloped and retains most of its primeval character except for an interpretive pueblo site with associated parking area and access road (Wukoki Pueblo), a small administrative area used for maintenance activities (New Heiser) and a special use permit residence with associated road access. At the expiration of the special use permit for the residence, the area will be rehabilitated to restore natural conditions.

In accordance with NPS Management Policies (2006), Section 6.2.2, Wupatki National Monument is in the process of completing a wilderness study in May/June 2025. A completed wilderness study will determine if any portions of the monument should be recommended for inclusion in the National Wilderness Preservation System as defined in the Wilderness Act of 1964.

 

Visitors walk beside the lower rooms of Crack in the Rock pueblo during a ranger-led hike.

NPS

Benfits of federal wilderness include:

• Preserving archeological resources in wilderness lands will allow us to continue to study how ancient peoples interacted with the landscape, as well as maintain the present-day connections with the associated tribes -- ultimately benefiting the cultural values of wilderness character.

• Enhancing the ecosystem for Wupatki grasslands with natural fire.

• Treatment of invasive plants and restoration of native habitat to improve the Natural Quality of wilderness.

• Preserving opportunities for solitude and wilderness recreation to the public.