Day of an Isle Royale Sea Kayaking Guide

John Paul Jones

Six a.m. My alarm's rhythmic buzzing gently pulls me from slumber. It's the last morning of a guided five-day kayak trip in Isle Royale National Park. My guests snooze as I tiptoe through camp gathering necessities for a hearty breakfast, fuel for our final 12-mile paddle back to Rock Harbor.

The weather report in the visitor center forecast sunny, calm days for the duration of our expedition. Thus far we have been blessed with beautiful weather for 4 days straight, exploring many of the numerous islands and finger bays on the northeastern end of Isle Royale. For days we’ve marveled at the maze of pebbled shores and dark volcanic cliffs that rise from the cold, crystalline depths of Lake Superior.

After embarking from Belle Isle Campground’s protected cove, I notice a storm brewing to the west. Foreboding dark clouds loom above as winds start building the farther we stray from the lee of our island camp. This is not what the forecast predicted, but weather changes rapidly here. There's no cell service in the park, and often a VHF radio may struggle to pick up signal for an update.

John Paul Jones

Initially this weather creates a welcome tailwind, pushing us effortlessly between the islands toward Lane Cove. I foolishly joke that this might be our easiest day yet! However, wind driven waves don't always act the way you assume they will. They can bend around islands, form steep breakers over shoals and points, or even reflect off cliffs causing peaked, messy clapotis waves.

As we cross the bay from Hill Point to Battleship Island, we begin experiencing the difficulties of following seas. The waves are growing to 2 to 3 feet and quartering at a 45-degree angle. It becomes a constant battle as each one relentlessly tries to broach us. Nearly as much effort is being applied to course correction as simply paddling forward.

Paddling in chop is a tiring task and I knew we still had one major obstacle ahead of us: the infamous Blake Point. Anyone who knows about the waters here will say this point is not to be taken lightly. The channel between Blake Point and Passage Island has shallow reefs, ripping cross currents, and waves crossing the entire fetch of Lake Superior. It's formidable even on a calmer day, but I have confidence in this group due to the paddling lesson we'd done prior to the trip. The guests are handling themselves well, even if the occasional sneaker wave causes a flash of concern in their eyes as we paddle on.

John Paul Jones

After a few exhausting miles, Locke Point has breaking waves across its shoal, and paddling wide around keeps us from harm. As we pass, the spectacular, towering escarpment of The Palisades and Blake Point crawls into view. We can see the ferocity of Lake Superior’s rage smashing against the ancient monoliths of basalt ahead. Reflecting waves twice the size of those we'd experienced earlier are exploding haphazardly into one another at the base of the cliffs.

My group approaches in near perfect pod formation, moving with synchronicity as I shout directions over the howling wind. We navigate between chaotic eruptions of thundering white water while rushing currents threaten to push us into the vast expanse of open water beyond the point. An unrelenting barrage of massive waves pummels us constantly, attempting to capsize our boats at every turn. I watch a well-placed low brace save one person from flipping under the fury of a crashing breaker, while another uses a stern rudder to surf down its face, speeding ahead of its violent implosion.

John Paul Jones

We paddle hard against the churning seas and make it into the sanctuary of Merritt Lane unscathed. Soaked to the core and full of relief, gliding through its calmness is a welcome reprieve. Mental fortitude coupled with the diligence of proper preparation has guided us safely around Isle Royale’s treacherous northeastern point.

Four miles later we are inside the warm walls of the Greenstone Grill in Rock Harbor. The group energetically recounts our most harrowing moments amid a table full of pizza, burgers, and beers. Much of this trip may eventually dissolve into pleasant memory, but this last day will live on in the stories of these weary adventurers who conquered mighty Lake Superior with nothing more than a sea kayak, a little training, and the will to keep paddling.

Written by: John Paul Jones